Many people have seen my “Shape of Your Corset Gap: What Does it Mean?” video and article, but several people have walked away with the wrong idea – they think that if you have anything BUT a straight, parallel gap down the back, that this means it’s going to break the corset.
This is actually incorrect. In this article, I will explain a bit more about what the gaps mean, and will also discuss some other fitting issues, like flaring, gaping, and problems with curviness/ lack of curves. If you’d like you can watch the video below instead of reading (it’s the same information):
Revisiting the V shape and A shape:
If your corset is making a V shape or A shape, the bones are not parallel but they’re still kept straight and they’re not bent per se. What it means is that the corset is not the best shape for you (I call it a corset-body mismatch). What may happen is that your corset may become seasoned in the V shape or A shape – but as your ribs and your hips are not going to dramatically change their natural measurements, there’s no reason that you should be worried about wearing the corset any other way. It is not likely to ruin the corset to wear it this way, as long as the bones in the back don’t bend or twist in their channels.
Some corsetieres and designers even deliberately draft a corset to have a V shape in the back. This is seen all the time on the backs of wedding dresses, and other formal wear and costumes. Some lacers and performers specifically request that their authentic corsets are drafted to have a V shape in the back. Also, Elizabethan stays/ payres of bodies were often made to have the V gap in the front, to show off the decorative stomacher. The “rules” of corset gaps are not universal throughout all fashion eras!
I also sometimes see people wearing a corset with the V shape or inverted V shape online (mostly Youtube and Tumblr), and people will tell the wearer that they’re wearing the corset incorrectly and the gap needs to be corrected so it’s parallel. This also isn’t true. If your corset is too small at the top, and you try to force the corset closed and reduce your own underbust measurement, you may find that it’s more difficult to take a deep breath and/or you’ll have flesh spilling over the top of the corset. In the opposite case, if your corset is too small at the bottom (A-shaped gap) and you try to force it closed and reduce the girth of your hips, you may feel some uncomfortable pinching or numbness in your hips, bum or legs; or you could even long-term nerve damage or bruising! Wearing a corset with an uneven gap doesn’t mean you’re wearing the corset incorrectly – it’s not the fault of the wearer, they are lacing it so that it’s comfortable and it’s not going to cause injury. However, this corset is simply not the right shape for the wearer’s body, and ideally the corset should be modified (one can add expandable hip ties or gores) or it should be returned/ exchanged for a curvier corset that will fit with a more even gap.
Revisiting the ( ) shape and )( shape:
The gap shapes you really need to worry about are the ones that look like parentheses. If you have the top and bottom of the corset touching and a big gap at the waistline (known as the “()” shape) or the opposite where the shape of the gap is echoing the hourglass shape of the corset (the “)(” shape), this means that the corset is the wrong size for your body, it’s either too curvy or not curvy enough for your experience level, and/or there may be something structurally wrong with the corset.
These gap shapes show that the bones are literally bending and twisting and not remaining straight and flat like they’re designed to do. What can happen to the corset in this situation is that the bone may permanently kink or bend, which weakens the bone and can dig into you uncomfortably. Not only that but because the bone has space to rub and twist in the channel, the fabric channel is being worn more (and less evenly) than a snug bone and this may cause a bone to pop out of its channel if there’s too much friction wearing away at the fabric. Also, the bones are there to support the grommets! If the bones are not doing their job, it can warp the fabric, putting uneven tension on the grommets and may make them more susceptible to eventually ripping out (think of those fashion corsets that are unsupported by bones in the back, and they crumple with any tension on the laces). The () and )( gap shapes are the ones that can really ruin the corset; not the V-shape.
Other fitting issues: Should my new corset flare away from my body or not?
I’ve been asked a lot lately about “flaring”, when people first try on a corset and it gapes away from your body. This is not only normal, it’s to be expected. In fact, if you’re seasoning your corset at a gentle reduction and you’re NOT getting some flaring (it’s snug around your ribs and hips, not loose or “big”), something might be wrong and the corset is probably not curvy enough for you.
Most people buy a corset that is curvier than their bodies (this is often the point of corseting). A well-fitting corset is supposed to have a smaller waist than your natural waist, but will have an underbust measurement the same as your natural underbust, and a hip measurement that is the same size as your natural hips.
This way, when you cinch down in the corset, it’s not trying to reduce the size of your underbust, waist and hips simultaneously, but will only reduce your waist while gently supporting the ribs and hips – when it’s not too big, it won’t flare, and when it’s not too small, you don’t get pinching or spillover.
My corset has a big gap in the back, but there’s no more room in the ribs or hips to cinch down further!
Many OTR corsets out there are not curvy enough for some people’s bodies. I have reviewed some corsets in the past that were not curvy enough to close all the way on me, because the ribcage and hip measurements of the corset are smaller than my own. You’ll notice that I don’t force the waist to be smaller to give the )( gap, I just leave it with a huge gap in the back because I want to show the true silhouette of the corset, and I also don’t want to ruin the corset.
My corset has a wide parallel gap in the back, but I’m seeing flaring.
This is the proper scenario: let’s say you have a very curvy corset but you’re not achieving large reductions in your waist yet. If the corset isn’t closed in the back, it is perfectly normal to have the top and bottom flare away from your body at this stage, because the corset is designed to fit when closed. You have to keep your eye on the end result, not on what the corset is doing at very gentle reductions.
In the meantime, does this mean that you should lace the top and bottom tighter, and keep the waist more loose so the back of the corset looks like () ? I personally wouldn’t. That is a good way to make the bones by the grommets bend and twist in the back, and potentially ruin the corset in the ways outlined above.
When I’m seasoning or training down in a corset that has a dramatic waist reduction, I just deal with the gaping or flaring at the ribs and hips. I don’t like the way the corset looks with the gaping, but it can be hidden by wearing sweaters or jeans under the corset to add bulk – or I’ll just wear the corset under my clothes so I don’t have to see it. It might feel wobbly, but I just remind myself that it’s a very temporary state until I’m able to train down further.
My corset is closed all the way in the back, but the top/ bottom are still flaring away from my body!
The corset is either too curvy for your body type, or it’s too big for you. If you feel that you’re able to cinch smaller and you want to train down further, then exchange the corset for a size smaller. If you have no interest in having a smaller waist, then see if you can get your corset exchanged for a less curvy one. Maybe a dramatic wasp-waist just isn’t for you, and you would prefer a more gentle hourglass or modern slim silhouette – there is nothing wrong with that! This is why different shapes of corsets exist for different people.
Hopefully this has helped clarify some points from my previous “Corset Gaps” video/article, and you’re able to troubleshoot your fitting issues more effectively. Do you have any other fitting issues that you’d like discussed in the future? Do you have anything to add, or do you disagree with anything said here? Do let me know in a comment.
Hi, I own 2 corsets and made sure I got the right size BUT when I lace them up I have a HUGE gap where my breasts sit. I can squish them but at the back I have flesh bludging over and if I tighten it it doesn’t help just hurts that flesh.
I’m big chested and a small waist naturally. I don’t know what to do to fix this.
Hi Dee, do you have a ribcage measurement that’s the same size or smaller than your natural waist? Sometimes that can happen – another reason could be that the corset is designed to give a different posture than you naturally have. If you sort of “lean forward” in your corset a bit, are you able to temporarily fill out that space in the front and alleviate some of the pinching in the back? I’m not saying to sit like that all the time; you don’t want to have to slouch to get a corset to fit properly!
One small way to improve the fit can be to curve the steels in the back like I show here – but it sounds more like you’d get a better fit in your corsets by taking away some of the material in the front and adding gores in the back to better distribute that ease.
I have a high poking out booty (some people call it a shelf butt) and have begun my corset journey with a custom corset made by my late grandmother. I have worn it to nothing and need to replace it. I am not in a position to buy a custom one right now nor do i fit the measurements of most of the OTR corsets I like. I have a strong preference for conical & more extreme hourglass shapes like Isabella Corsetry’s Josephine but that shape doesn’t have the hip spring I need because of my butt. The issue is that when most corset makers add the hip spring they often create the room in the actual hips. I do have some flare in my hips but my butt is where most of that measurement comes from. (BTW my measurements are underbust 32”, waist 31”, high hip 38”, low hip 40”, torso length (seated) 10.5”, length from natural waist to where my butt starts to flare out is only about 4” and within a couple inches it pretty quickly hits the 38” mark. I had considered buying a Josephine and adding hip ties in the back as after watching your video I think I could accomplish that if you think it would work. Or are there brands that cater to big bootys? I considered Mystic City and some others you mentioned in a video where you covered similar things but even most of those seem to have the bulk of the fabric in the hip area. Any thoughts or suggestions as I get into retail corseting (aside from I should just save up to get a custom one as I’m already doing that)?
Hey Lucy I’ve noticed mild () on one of my corsets and wanted to know if it wasn’t a concern. In the photos you’ve posted all of the bowing is very noticeable while in mine it isn’t very noticeable and looks almost parallel. I measured the bow and found it to be 1/8th of an inch wider in the middle then the top and bottom of the corset. The gap at the top and bottom measures 3 inches. It’s very mild so I was unsure if it should be a cause for concern or not, please let me know what you think.
Hi Alyssa, if your steels are veering by only 1/8th of an inch, it’s not much to worry about. I deliberately show situations where the lacing gap is dramatically wonky because I don’t want people to agonize over smaller variations. 1/8th inch can sometimes be attributed to the fabric straining as opposed to the bones themselves.
Hi, Lucy. First I want to say thank you for your hard work in making available so much helpful information.
I started my corset waist training almost 1 year ago and have had success in reducing the size of my waist. But also since then have become aware that I have a mild case of pectus excavatum. The main relevance is that it causes my lower ribs to flare out a bit. I have hopes that I can train my lower ribs over time to correct this deformity by using the right kind of steel boned corset. However, until this can be corrected, my lower-ribs measurement is disproportionately large relative to my upper-hips measurement, creating an issue with rib-spring versus hip-spring in off-the-rack corsets. If you have any advice about this specific congenital defect related to corseting I would like to know it. Otherwise, I’m wondering is it better to buy my future corsets prioritizing correct hip-spring which results in a V-shaped corset gap and a little gaping around the top (my current problem), or prioritize correct rib-spring which might result in some looseness or gaping around the upper-hips (I haven’t tried it yet). Or maybe an overbust corset would work better? Keeping in mind I hope to train my ribs to a more normal shape, or as close as is possible. Thanks, Lucy!
Hi Jane, unfortunately I don’t have any experience with rib training with pectus excavatum, I’m sorry! I think an overbust corset would still fit you with a “V” shaped lacing gap in the back. There are corsets out there with cupped ribs so it’s not too dramatic or too much pressure on your ribs all at one, and they may be more comfortable for you (whether you like the silhouette of the corset is another thing). Some people start with a round rib corset and “graduate” to something with a bit more of a conical rib later on.
I do something called Fascial a Stretch Therapy and work with the structure of the body. If you are looking to resolve this, a corset may help some but this is a structural issue due to connective tissue adhesions and in my experience can be resolved with consistent bodywork (weekly at least) with an experienced practitioner in fascial structural therapy. If you would like help finding someone in your area I am happy to help you do that. Shoot me an email with your contact info and I will call you, get some more info on your situation and then find the best person in your area. If you want to go with a corset alone I would start with at least some cupping so that you do not require too much change too quickly. Remodeling bones happens all the time, it is not unrealistic at all but it is a slow process so work your way into a more conical shape very slowly and again I would highly recommend working with a professional in this area. Hope this helps!
I just brought a corset from OC an it’s the 411 in the size 22. I don’t know if it’s the right size for me. My measurements are
UNDERBUST: 28
Waist: 27
Upper hip: 33
Lower hip: 38
Torso (standing):10
Torso (sitting):9
How do I know if it’s right for me. I have pictures to help you see where my problem is. At the top of the corset its space (right under my underbust). Another question is it also possiable that the corset isn’t tight enough? I can still stick my stomach out (like push it out more). I hope you can be able to help me
Hi Imani, with many corsets, it’s normal in the beginning (when there is a wider gap in the back of the corset and it’s only being laced lightly), the top and/or bottom edges of the corset to flare away from your body.
Most corsets are designed to cinch in primarily the waist, while gently supporting the ribs and hips instead of cutting in or pinching at the top and bottom.
Once your body gets used to the compression and you’re able to lace the corset tighter in the back, you should notice that the top and bottom edges of the corset come in to meet your ribs and hips and that flaring should dissipate.
Your corset may still be stiff and need some breaking in and softening before you are able to pull it tighter, even though you feel like your waist can accommodate more cinch. However if it’s causing any discomfort or pain to your ribs and hips, it may not be the best fit for you.
I just bought a corset for Orchard Corset and I love it. I have only worn it 2 times and I am totally new to this. So, my question is, is it normal for the 2nd time wearing it that the back doesn’t even meet the modesty panel (shy 1/2″ from the modesty panel edge). I guess I’m confused as to if this is the right size or maybe the wrong type? If you could please give some advise it would be appreciated!
Hi Sasha, if your modesty panel isn’t fully covering the back of your corset, I’m guessing that the lacing gap in the back is around 5-6 inches wide? I normally don’t recommend a super wide gap in the back and there’s a chance that your corset is 1 size too small for you. I have a different article where I explain how a super wide gap in the back can affect the fit and support of your corset.
I am making my own corset, and have noticed a developing “()” problem in the mock up. I am pretty skinny to start with (the corset is for back support and is part of a historical ensemble I’m making) and I had to take in the pattern already. Right now, the middle has the proper gap width, but the bottom touches and the top overlaps. What should I do?
Hi Rosie, if you want a parallel lacing gap in the back, I would take in the bust and hips so they’re a bit smaller than your body, and will create the same amount of gap as you get at the waistline. If you’re simply looking for the back to be more rigid and resistant to bowing, I have another big article on how to do that here.
This is a very helpful guide, but I’m having a problem I haven’t seen addressed anywhere. I have a large, high butt (I call it a shelf butt), that pushes the bottom of my corset up, often buckling or causing it to bend painfully into my lower back. My corset fits perfectly everywhere else, butt my butt doesn’t exactly squish down like other, fleshier parts.
Hi Lizzie, this other post on how to gently curve the back steels so they accommodate a shelf bum or sway back might be closer to what you’re looking for. I hope it helps!
Hello!
I’ve found your article so so helpful but I have a question that’s really bugging me .
My natural waist is 22 inches. I have purchased a new corset ( it isn’t my first one) and I am experiencing the )( shape problem . Unfortunately I cut the tag so I can’t return it .
I am not too worried about the corset but I am wondering if it is still going to reduce the size of my waist ? Is it still going to be efficient and is the corset going to modify my body in a weird way since it’s not squeezing the ribs in?
Thank you xx
Hi Mariah, if the gap in the back is bowing, it’s still more or less accommodating your figure. The fit is not perfect or ideal, but people are still able to wear their corsets (and some see results) even when wearing a corset that doesn’t fit perfectly. If you measure the internal waist, is it smaller than your natural waist? If so, the corset is doing something. :) But if you are in the market for a corset that fits you better, you can check out the Corset Database or submit your measurements for a personal recommendation. :)
Thank you so much for this informative post.
I now understand that my corset doesn’t fit the shape of my body, and that expandable hip ties or gores might fix the problem.
I am awful at sewing. How might I find someone to hire who could do this alteration for me? Is this something corsetieres are generally willing to do even if it isn’t a corset they made?
Thanks again!
Hi Veronika, I would recommend contacting a corset maker near you via the corsetiere map. Sometimes they are willing to alter your corsets, sometimes not, but it’s worth a try! If they are not willing to or if there are no makers who work near you, I would try a local tailor you trust.