Many people have seen my “Shape of Your Corset Gap: What Does it Mean?” video and article, but several people have walked away with the wrong idea – they think that if you have anything BUT a straight, parallel gap down the back, that this means it’s going to break the corset.
This is actually incorrect. In this article, I will explain a bit more about what the gaps mean, and will also discuss some other fitting issues, like flaring, gaping, and problems with curviness/ lack of curves. If you’d like you can watch the video below instead of reading (it’s the same information):
Revisiting the V shape and A shape:
If your corset is making a V shape or A shape, the bones are not parallel but they’re still kept straight and they’re not bent per se. What it means is that the corset is not the best shape for you (I call it a corset-body mismatch). What may happen is that your corset may become seasoned in the V shape or A shape – but as your ribs and your hips are not going to dramatically change their natural measurements, there’s no reason that you should be worried about wearing the corset any other way. It is not likely to ruin the corset to wear it this way, as long as the bones in the back don’t bend or twist in their channels.
Some corsetieres and designers even deliberately draft a corset to have a V shape in the back. This is seen all the time on the backs of wedding dresses, and other formal wear and costumes. Some lacers and performers specifically request that their authentic corsets are drafted to have a V shape in the back. Also, Elizabethan stays/ payres of bodies were often made to have the V gap in the front, to show off the decorative stomacher. The “rules” of corset gaps are not universal throughout all fashion eras!
I also sometimes see people wearing a corset with the V shape or inverted V shape online (mostly Youtube and Tumblr), and people will tell the wearer that they’re wearing the corset incorrectly and the gap needs to be corrected so it’s parallel. This also isn’t true. If your corset is too small at the top, and you try to force the corset closed and reduce your own underbust measurement, you may find that it’s more difficult to take a deep breath and/or you’ll have flesh spilling over the top of the corset. In the opposite case, if your corset is too small at the bottom (A-shaped gap) and you try to force it closed and reduce the girth of your hips, you may feel some uncomfortable pinching or numbness in your hips, bum or legs; or you could even long-term nerve damage or bruising! Wearing a corset with an uneven gap doesn’t mean you’re wearing the corset incorrectly – it’s not the fault of the wearer, they are lacing it so that it’s comfortable and it’s not going to cause injury. However, this corset is simply not the right shape for the wearer’s body, and ideally the corset should be modified (one can add expandable hip ties or gores) or it should be returned/ exchanged for a curvier corset that will fit with a more even gap.
Revisiting the ( ) shape and )( shape:
The gap shapes you really need to worry about are the ones that look like parentheses. If you have the top and bottom of the corset touching and a big gap at the waistline (known as the “()” shape) or the opposite where the shape of the gap is echoing the hourglass shape of the corset (the “)(” shape), this means that the corset is the wrong size for your body, it’s either too curvy or not curvy enough for your experience level, and/or there may be something structurally wrong with the corset.
These gap shapes show that the bones are literally bending and twisting and not remaining straight and flat like they’re designed to do. What can happen to the corset in this situation is that the bone may permanently kink or bend, which weakens the bone and can dig into you uncomfortably. Not only that but because the bone has space to rub and twist in the channel, the fabric channel is being worn more (and less evenly) than a snug bone and this may cause a bone to pop out of its channel if there’s too much friction wearing away at the fabric. Also, the bones are there to support the grommets! If the bones are not doing their job, it can warp the fabric, putting uneven tension on the grommets and may make them more susceptible to eventually ripping out (think of those fashion corsets that are unsupported by bones in the back, and they crumple with any tension on the laces). The () and )( gap shapes are the ones that can really ruin the corset; not the V-shape.
Other fitting issues: Should my new corset flare away from my body or not?
I’ve been asked a lot lately about “flaring”, when people first try on a corset and it gapes away from your body. This is not only normal, it’s to be expected. In fact, if you’re seasoning your corset at a gentle reduction and you’re NOT getting some flaring (it’s snug around your ribs and hips, not loose or “big”), something might be wrong and the corset is probably not curvy enough for you.
Most people buy a corset that is curvier than their bodies (this is often the point of corseting). A well-fitting corset is supposed to have a smaller waist than your natural waist, but will have an underbust measurement the same as your natural underbust, and a hip measurement that is the same size as your natural hips.
This way, when you cinch down in the corset, it’s not trying to reduce the size of your underbust, waist and hips simultaneously, but will only reduce your waist while gently supporting the ribs and hips – when it’s not too big, it won’t flare, and when it’s not too small, you don’t get pinching or spillover.
My corset has a big gap in the back, but there’s no more room in the ribs or hips to cinch down further!
Many OTR corsets out there are not curvy enough for some people’s bodies. I have reviewed some corsets in the past that were not curvy enough to close all the way on me, because the ribcage and hip measurements of the corset are smaller than my own. You’ll notice that I don’t force the waist to be smaller to give the )( gap, I just leave it with a huge gap in the back because I want to show the true silhouette of the corset, and I also don’t want to ruin the corset.
My corset has a wide parallel gap in the back, but I’m seeing flaring.
This is the proper scenario: let’s say you have a very curvy corset but you’re not achieving large reductions in your waist yet. If the corset isn’t closed in the back, it is perfectly normal to have the top and bottom flare away from your body at this stage, because the corset is designed to fit when closed. You have to keep your eye on the end result, not on what the corset is doing at very gentle reductions.
In the meantime, does this mean that you should lace the top and bottom tighter, and keep the waist more loose so the back of the corset looks like () ? I personally wouldn’t. That is a good way to make the bones by the grommets bend and twist in the back, and potentially ruin the corset in the ways outlined above.
When I’m seasoning or training down in a corset that has a dramatic waist reduction, I just deal with the gaping or flaring at the ribs and hips. I don’t like the way the corset looks with the gaping, but it can be hidden by wearing sweaters or jeans under the corset to add bulk – or I’ll just wear the corset under my clothes so I don’t have to see it. It might feel wobbly, but I just remind myself that it’s a very temporary state until I’m able to train down further.
My corset is closed all the way in the back, but the top/ bottom are still flaring away from my body!
The corset is either too curvy for your body type, or it’s too big for you. If you feel that you’re able to cinch smaller and you want to train down further, then exchange the corset for a size smaller. If you have no interest in having a smaller waist, then see if you can get your corset exchanged for a less curvy one. Maybe a dramatic wasp-waist just isn’t for you, and you would prefer a more gentle hourglass or modern slim silhouette – there is nothing wrong with that! This is why different shapes of corsets exist for different people.
Hopefully this has helped clarify some points from my previous “Corset Gaps” video/article, and you’re able to troubleshoot your fitting issues more effectively. Do you have any other fitting issues that you’d like discussed in the future? Do you have anything to add, or do you disagree with anything said here? Do let me know in a comment.
Hey I bought this corset CS411 size 38 it fits me good in my stomack cuz I’m a size 42 but it fits me big from the top I can slide my hand you think I should get a different corset like a CS426
Hi Meytha, if your corset is completely closed in the back and it’s comfortable for you but still flaring at the top and bottom edges, I’d recommend going down one size. The CS-426 has more curve to it so getting that one in the same size will just likely create more flare at the top edge.
Hi! :) I have a question regarding sizing in a corset; If my waist measurement is 40 inches, my bust is 46 inches, and my hips are around 50 inches, how many inches smaller in the waist would be suitable for me? Thanks! :)
Hi Kaylee, at first glance I might put you in a size 34″ corset but it depends on the type of corset since each brand has a different silhouette and different curviness. Are you looking for an overbust or underbust? I’m guessing since you gave your bust measurement, you’re looking for an overbust.
Lucy, Thank you so much for all your information and responses to your viewers/fans. I’ve been watching you for about two years now, and I finally buckled and bought the Orchard Corset CS-345 they had for sale on Black Friday. (Yay!) I got it in the mail today, and immediately tried it on but I noticed that the tension on the ribs and lower waist line was creating the () curve. Since I am just seasoning should I relax it and wait for my body to adapt to the shape? I also noticed a little pouch in the lower front of my torso, perhaps a longline corset would fix this? I was very surprised at how comfortable the corset is to wear even without seasoning! The curvature from tightening is minimal and not very dramatic. Thank you for any response. :)
Hi Kim, I notice that the Orchard Corsets are known to have the back bones bow quite a bit. You can change the lacing method to help give more control at the waist and help prevent bowing. You can also use a zipper foot to sew adjacent to the back bones of the corset and tighten the boning channels, which will help prevent them from twisting so much in the channel and thus help prevent the bowing.
The bottom flipping out on the 345 is a common occurrence – many people have experienced the same thing, including myself, and I don’t have any lower tummy to speak of. If you need more control and flattening of this area, I recommend a longline corset – the fabric wrapping around the hips will give leverage to pull in the bottom front.
My first 411 from Orchard Corsets had a huge gap at the back and no room in the hip or ribcage for further reduction. After e-mailing a photo to OC customer service to ask if my corset was too small, they told me that it was the correct size but I had received a defective corset. They immediately sent me the correct corset free of charge. The new one is much curvier and fits much better (though it’s still a little tight in the hips, that is just because of my hip shape). So if any of you have a 411 that seems too straight or too small, definitely let OC know!
Good to know, Hannah! Thanks for letting us know. :)
My corset just came in yesterday & i bought it size 24. But the top of my corset where the boobs are is loose, but on the waist and hips it fits perfectly. Also, the bottom steel pokes my abdomen. Im not sure what the problem is.
Hello Maria, what brand of corset did you buy? Different corsets exist for people of different bust sizes, just like different women need different bras. If your bust is a bit smaller, you may be interested in seeing the overbust corset options on this page.
Thank you for this!!! I’m very much a novice and, after watching your video, I WAS afraid to lace my corset very tightly at all. I get the A shape. As a matter of fact I had googled to see if I could modify the hip to make them larger. Whew! Thanks again for clearing things up!
Hi Clover, I’m so glad that you were able to find the question to your answer! And as an aside, it IS possible to modify corsets to add hip ties or gores and give yourself room in the hips! Here is my tutorial for the hip ties, and here is (part 2 of 2) tutorial for hip gores. :) Cheers!
I recently bought a corset but when I put it on the first time there was no gap in the back. I ordered a XL 30″-32″ which my underbust is 31″ …. should I have gotten a Large? or smaller than a L.
Hi Betty, what specific corset are you wearing? A real corset normally doesn’t have a S/M/L/XL style sizing, but rather the actual size of the waistline when closed. Moreover you should measure your waist just about an inch above your navel, and subtract 4-6 inches to find your suitable corset size.
Your website is very helpful and informative–I just ordered from Isabella Corsetry, my first corset (!) based on your suggestions. Thank you!!!! I would have been stumbling around in the dark without your help!
First of all, thank you so much for your videos! I am a science nerd too, so I love that you use logic and explain the physics and biology so well. (I also have long hair too, and also dress from secondhand stores so much that I ignore the fashions…)
Anyway, on topic. I recently made my first corset. It was the first real garment I ever sewed start to finish, so I’m not very experienced with fitting in general. I used the Foundations Revealed tutorial to draft it to my measurements, with pretty good success, but I still have a few questions… I am getting a slight A shape even though the hip measurement is correct, due to the corset being accidentally a little longline and hitting my butt… But lacing it parallel anyway doesn’t result in any discomfort because my butt is compressible. Is it bad to lace it parallel? I am planning to cut my next corset higher to avoid the issue, but if I eventually want to make longline corsets, how should I draft in more flare at the back? Wouldn’t hip gores/laces just cause more fit problems, since the side hip fits fine? Is it possible to make butt gores that don’t look silly? lol!
Hi Jess! Thanks so much for your comment, and your compliments! :D Indeed, it’s not uncommon to see “butt gores” on some corsets – if you see the WKD Morticia corset, they have a gore on the last panel by the back. But I do find it odd that the corset is cutting into your bum while keeping the hip measurement true. Could it be that while you were initially measuring, the measuring tape was lifted up in the back by your bum so your hip measurement was on an angle? It could also be that the flats at the back by the grommets are pretty stiff, and they want to cut into the bum instead of curving over it.
There’s another way to avoid the bum completely when you make even longline corsets! What you can do is raise the line of the bottom line on the last panel in the back, so it curves up towards your tailbone and leaves space for the bum. You can see that in my most recent L’Atelier de LaFleur review, and I think Sparklewren and Waisted Creations have both utilized that in the past as well. :)
Thanks so much for the help! It’s possible I could have curved the measuring tape… I boned it with all cable ties, though, so I don’t think it’s too stiff.
I think I will follow your advice to curve upward at the tailbone next time! I looked at it again and it actually curves downward a bit at the tailbone… I don’t remember why I did that!
I’m a big girl and bought my first corset at size 42. Now I’ve exercised and trained down to close that corset and I’m wondering if my next step down should be sized according to what I am inside the corset or without it on? I plan to go with Timeless Trends or Orchard corsets, if that makes a difference.
Hi Angela, if you can close the size 42″ corset, you can size down to 40″ or possibly even 38″ if you have extra room. The size also depends on the curviness of the corset, because it has to accommodate your ribs and hips, and not squeeze them too much.