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“Wrinkly Pig” Corset Case Study

This entry is a summary of the review video “Wrinkly Pig” Corset Case Study”. If you would like more complete information and side notes about the corset, you can watch the video on YouTube here:

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Note: the following are the differences between the “Wrinkly Pig” and the “Tickled Pink” corset in terms of construction:

  Wrinkly Pig Tickled Pink
Fusing Fused the brocade to a layer of woven fusible interfacing, then flatlined that to coutil. Fused the brocade directly to a layer of coutil using “Heat n’ Bond” (fiddly sheet of glue, I don’t recommend it).
Roll-pinning Everything was flat-pinned, not roll-pinned. Some roll-pinning was done on the side panels.
Seams Lock-stitched seams; allowances were not trimmed or clipped at curves. Seams were trimmed and flat-felled.
Boning channels Double-boned at the seams, sandwiched between two layers of coutil. Single boned at the seams, used external boning channels (cuts down on wrinkles slightly)

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And here is my review:

Fit, length Decent curves. Used to be a slightly long-line corset but I later shortened the hips so it is more of a cincher now. Center front is about 11″ long.
Material 4 layers including the interfacing: brocade fashion fabric fused to interfacing, then flatlined to interlining of coutil and another lining of coutil.
Construction 6-panel pattern. Seams were lock-stitched (stitched twice) at the seams, the allowances were pressed open. The brocade/interfacing/coutil flatlined panels were all assembled, then the coutil lining was assembled. The layers were then stitched together at first/last panels, flipped right-side out and stitched in the ditch between panels and also secured at boning channels.  Bones are sandwiched between the two layers of coutil.
Binding The binding at top and bottom are made out of commercial hot pink cotton bias tape, machine stitched on both sides.
Waist tape 1” wide twill tape between the coutil lining and interlining, stitched invisibly so it’s not noticeable.
Modesty panel Suspended modesty panel made from brocade fused to twill, and stiffened with plastic canvas. 7″ wide.
Busk A standard flexible busk, 1/2” wide on each side, with 5 pins, 9.5″ long.
Boning 22 steel bones in this corset not including the busk. The seams between the panels are double-boned (except the seam closest to the grommets with ¼” inch wide spirals, and there are a pair of flats sandwiching each column of grommets.
Grommets There are 30 2-part size #X00 eyelets (15 on each side). They have a medium flange around and are spaced out 3/4 inches apart. No pulling away of fabric yet but they are very small so many types of fat cord is hard to thread through.
Laces 1/2″ wide double-face satin ribbon, baby pink in colour. About 5 meters and not really long enough for my tastes. I think I may change out the laces for some longer ones.
Price If I were to re-make this corset, I would roll-pin the panels and also use wonder-under or stitch-witchery to directly fuse the brocade to a layer of coutil to eliminate wrinkling. Keeping other construction techniques the same, I would likely charge around $260 USD for a corset like this.
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Azrael’s Accomplice (AZAC) “Curvy Girl” Corset Review

This entry is a summary of the review video “AZAC Curvy Girl Corset Review & Modification” which you can watch on YouTube here:

Fit, length Curvy, extreme hourglass silhouette. Slightly longline over the hips. Waist stretched over time (about 1.25 inches).The longest part of the corset at the center front is 12.5”. Good for people with an average-length torso. Has enough room in the ribcage and hip areas; very comfortable. May accentuate lower tummy pooch due to inward bend at the front waist.
Material Mostly 3 layers. The fashion fabric is a lightweight hot pink satin (it’s available in other colours), and is flatlined to a light woven cotton underneath. The strength layer of the corset is the twill lining.
Construction 5 panel pattern with 1 large hip gore per side. Top-stitching between panels. It looks like external boning channels but these are simply decorative and only sewed to the top pink satin; the boning is inserted into channels created between the twill lining and strips of canvas laid down inside.
Binding Baby pink satin bias binding around the hip gores and around the top and bottom match the decorative channels, and are machine finished on the inside and outside.
Waist tape 0.5″ wide invisible waist tape between the interlining and lining.
Modesty panel Single layer, unboned modesty panel in the back made from the same hot pink satin. There’s also an unstiffened modesty placket in the front under the busk.
Busk Standard flexible busk (1/2″ wide on each side), 11″ long with 5 pins. Busk is reinforced by a ¼” flat bone on each side.
Boning 14 steel bones not including busk, all ¼” wide flat steel. They’re finished nicely, but they are extremely flexible. This is alright where it curves over the extreme hip spring, but the bones don’t feel sturdy in the back by the grommets (tends to bow outward at the waist).
Grommets 20 grommets total; 2-part (includes washer) and in size #0. I think it could have used about 4 more grommets near the bottom, which I put in later. Grommets are sturdy with a large flange, there is no fraying around the material, they’re not pulling out, although the ribbon catches a tiny bit on a couple of the split grommets in the back while I’m tying it up.
Laces Half-inch wide double-faced satin ribbon that matches the decorative binding and channels. Very strong, hasn’t frayed much even with the slight catching on the grommets.
Price Currently $165 USD

Final Thoughts:

Don’t get me wrong, I adored the shape of this corset. It was indeed a corset for curvy girls! I was just torn on how light it was. Anyone who has handled a few real corsets can know how deceptively heavy a corset can be, but this one was as light as, say, a t-shirt. I loved it because it didn’t feel like a burden to wear, but was slightly concerned that it might not have been steel boned.

I decided to do a little dissecting (nothing that I couldn’t repair again) and was relieved to find that it did indeed have flexible flat steel bones. For good measure and ease of lacing, I replaced just the bones in the grommet panel, and also added a few more grommets. I also boned and suspended the modesty panel, although that has no real bearing on the corset itself. The rest of the corset – quality of the grommets, twill strength layer, internal waist tape etc – are of typical off-the-rack quality, which I was satisfied with.

To see the Curvy Girl corset and other styles made by Azrael’s Accomplice, you can find their site here.