Most off-the-rack (OTR) cater only to bust sizes of a relatively narrow range (typically between a B and D cup), and it can be difficult to find a standard corset that fits D+ cups.* If your bust size is over about an F cup, at one point in time, it was almost impossible to find a standard sized corset to lift, support and cover your bust appropriately. The ideal overbust corset (in my opinion) should fully encompass the breast tissue and prevent you from spilling over or popping out of the corset. It should also give your bust a moderate lift, but not flatten the breasts like pancakes and not push up the breasts so high that it creates a chin rest.
Not every corsetiere is experienced in fitting overbusts for top-heavy women. A well-fitted overbust can be quite healthy for women with large or heavy breasts, as it takes considerable pressure off the neck, shoulders and upper back by supporting the bust from below, as opposed to having shoulder straps from bras cutting into the flesh. Some medical professionals have recommended overbust corsets as part of treatment/ prevention of thoracic outlet syndrome and torn scalene muscles from heavy breasts.
While it’s the best situation to have a corsetiere give you an in-person mockup fitting (or several) to ensure the best outcome possible, not everyone has a corsetiere living close by. (To check if you have any corsetieres in your vicinity, see my Corsetiere Map.) The next best thing is to find a corsetiere online who is experienced at fitting large busts. The following is a non-exhaustive list of corsetieres that I’ve found to give beautiful bust shaping for larger cup sizes in conventional (non-cupped) overbusts. If you’re interested in cupped overbusts, I have a separate gallery here.
OTR Corsets for Large Busts:
After Corsets Blvd Global seems to have closed their shop and their site was hacked, I was really stuck trying to figure out some decent quality OTR overbust corsets to suit those with a large and heavy bust. After 5 years of waiting, TT has finally come through with the hourglass overbust corsets, available in 3 different bust sizes (Small, Medium, and Large) to fit anywhere between B cup to over J cup (yes, really). The large bust can accommodate up to 18 inches difference between the waist and the bust, thanks to another adjustable lacing system in the front. It can be ordered in dozens of different colors and fabrics – you can find all the available options in my own shop here!
Mystic City Corsets arguably has the largest collection of different shapes and patterns to suit a large variety of body types. Their largest-bust overbust currently in stock is the MCC30 plunge, which has a 14-inch difference between the bust and the waistline, which can be made even wider by loosening the front lacing system. I recommend scoping out both their regular website and their Etsy shop as they stock different styles and sizes on each platform.
Custom Corsets for Large Busts:
Lace Embrace Atelier has decades worth of experience in fitting all different bodies. Here are just three examples out of her countless repertoire: the RTW Eynede corset which is designed for full-busted clients (which bridges the standard-size and the bespoke corsets), and her made-to-measure versions of her Pearl Heart corset and Olivia overbust below:
Lace Embrace shows that patterning corsets can be different whether the client is surgically enhanced or naturally full-busted — there are different shapes and sizes of course, but also different amounts of density (firmness), projection, how far apart or close together they are, fullness on top vs bottom, and so much more. With so many different kinds of bras out there, it’s silly to think that overbust corsets are one-size-fits all! To be able to master the right fit and support for all different body types is an accomplishment worthy of recognition.
Wyte Phantom (UK) has made so many lovely overbusts that I couldn’t choose just one. Jennifer Garside, the skill, talent and brains behind Wyte Phantom shows her skill at making different overbusts for different full-busted models and clients, with different neckline shapes, different amounts of lift, coverage, and support, and very different aesthetics and moods to suit each wearer. Jennifer has an Etsy shop where she makes very affordable one-of-a-kind sample corsets in all different styles and sizes, but you can of course contact her directly for a custom commission.
Lovely Rats Corsetry is owned and operated by one of my corset besties, Amber. Not only is she the sweetest, but she is also the genius who developed the OTR hourglass overbust corsets in my shop, AND she is also a perfectionist when it comes to obtaining the correct fit with her custom commissions. One example is this series of overbust corsets (including some wearable mockups) made for Penny Underbust with varying amounts of coverage and support, where she doesn’t back down from a good challenge.
Rosie Red Corsetry and Couture has a highly recognizable aesthetic for smokey, flowy, frothy ethereal gowns with tattered edges and organically-placed lace, as though the wearer walked out of seafoam, summer garden, or a mossy forest. Rosie is proficient at fitting all body types, including the plus size and the full-busted, as shown on model Lexy Lu in the grey, and Lianna Haynes in the red.
The Bad Button is a one-woman business by Alisha (“Madame Button”) in Kentucky – and her expertise shines in cases of full-figured and full-busted bespoke corsets. Here are two examples of her work on opposite sides of the spectrum: a fantasy-themed Bridal corset with scalloped hem and brightly colored appliqué, vs a more simple overbust that (if decorative side ribbons were removed) would be perfect for stealthing for effortless bust support all day. In both situations, the clients were comfortably supported with a flattering line, and without the formation of a “chin-rest”.
Valkyrie Corsets (UK) is run by Geraldine, a one-woman-wonder…. and she is an incredibly underrated corsetiere who seems to be able to do it all – tiny corsets, long corsets, asymmetric corsets, bodysuit corsets, and here is an example of a well-fitted and supportive overbust corset for full-busted model Dani Divine.
New York designer Angela Friedman makes magic with her beautifully supportive overbusts for the fuller-busted. If a picture is worth a thousand words, then you can see that the many panels running down the front of her custom-fit corsets work to create a superbly smooth, highly-customized overbust with a round bust shape – no excessive push-up, no flattening of the bust and no tissue spillover.
Sannie of Skeletons in the Closet Corsetry (Netherlands) has extensive experience patterning and making corsets for full-busted clients. Here you can see a full-version of the “Dutch Masters” overbust (of which I own a sample) designed to fit a taller, curvier and more full-busted model with flattering coverage and support (no armpit squidge!); a corset that would look lovely over clothing or stealth well under clothing, as the wearer desires.
Certainly not your typical plain overbust: Mina LaFleur made waves with this historical recreation of a traditional Victorian overbust. Historical overbusts are not usually overbusts in the sense that we think of them; they’re actually closer to demibust (half-covering the breast) with a chemise worn underneath to cover the rest of the chest. Mina slightly altered the pattern to curve a little more over the breast and prevent flattening or spillage. As a large-busted corset-wearer herself, she understands the need for a comfortable and flattering overbust. Her bespoke overbusts start at $800 CAD including toile fitting.
KMK Designs is an incredibly prolific mother-daughter duo who are active Patreon, designing fun costumes and lines every season, they have a steady line of custom commissions, they create samples for their Etsy shop, and they’re also highly passionate about inclusivity in the corset world, providing a service for anyone who wants or needs a corset – including men, women, full-figured, and full-busted as seen here in their “Daring Beauty” alternative bridal overbust.
Kitty Krell, the corsetiere behind Crimson Rose Corsetry, is not only very vocal about her life with EDS and chronic pain, but she also uses herself as a guinea pig and tester for daily-wear, therapeutic-grade supportive overbust braces that are not only flexible and lightweight enough to be worn comfortably all day, but are also strong enough for rigorous use – most of her corsets have tens of thousands of hours put into them. Kitty understands how bra bands can hurt ribs that sublux easily and can exacerbate costochondritis, and how bra straps can cut uncomfortably into shoulders, so her overbusts are designed to replace bras in everyday use – and she knows just how to pattern them to mimic the projection and support of many modern bras, making these overbusts stealthable under clothing (which is one of the most difficult challenges of overbusts).
Beth Moody of Moody Corsetry (UK) has managed to showcase her expertise in creating three different types of specialty corsets in one: smooth and wrinkle-free multi-panelled plus size corsets, incredibly supportive overbusts for full-busted clients, and a striking dramatic hip shelf for those with hip springs that exceed the limitations of off-the-rack.
Lotte of Unartig Boutique (Germany) is able to combine full coverage and a modest neckline with the couple’s aesthetic for this offbeat bridal ensemble. While the bride was quite full-busted according to corsetiere Lotte, she was able to use the right lift, compression and coverage to create a proportional silhouette with ample support, and make it look effortless in the end.
Tracey of Sakura Corsetry & Couture (New Zealand) created this overbust corset as part of a bridal ensemble for a full-busted client. Not only does the corset provide lift and support, but the lace illusion neckline provides further security by keeping the upper bust in place (as a Victorian chemise would) without ruining the line of the decolletage. The collared lace continues down the back to also control any spillover at the shoulder blades — this also mitigates the age-old issue of a corset feeling too tight in the back while flopping forward in the front, ensuring a flawless and elegant finish. You can also find her samples at a discounted price on Etsy here.
What’s not to love about this overbust by Crikey Aphrodite? Alison, the owner of Crikey Aphrodite (Scotland), has worked as a professional bra-fitter for years – knowledge that she’s expertly incorporated into her characteristic gored overbust corsets made especially for fuller busts, creating a superb lifted and rounded bust area. Her bespoke corsets range from £380-£1000 which includes a toile fitting.
Evgeniya Molodykh, better known as Nemuro Corsets, is a one-woman business in Moscow. I was first introduced to her work when she entered a contest for Foundations Revealed, but she has since made a name for herself on Instagram and Etsy. Her range of work is impressive, from historical reproduction stays to modern overbusts like above, traditional overbusts as well as cupped.
This robin’s egg blue overbust from Totally Waisted! Corsetry (Now Bone & Busk Couture by Katharina Mior; Toronto Canada) is an exquisitely shaped piece from early 2011. The curve around the bust combined with the external boning channels and delicate flossing makes for a soft, feminine piece that still effectively shapes and controls curves. Kate is knowledgeable in fitting both fuller busts and smaller busts, and she takes commissions for custom overbusts through Etsy.
This avant-garde purple overbust was created by Joëlle at Atelier Sylphe Corsets for Alina, the lead singer of Markize. It’s designed for a fuller cup size and wider hip spring and features a plunge neckline while still keeping the bust fully covered. The majority of the corsets sold through Atelier Sylphe are special one-off samples, but every so often you can find one of her corsets for large busts.
Whatever your shape, size, corseting experience, age or gender, Doris Müller will create a corset to shape and flatter – large busts are no challenge to her. To be truthful, I can’t believe I’ve gone so long without knowing about Corsets and More, as Doris excels in nearly every style of corset. The overbust featured above combines a modest sweetheart bustline that effectively covers the entire cup, while still accentuating a tiny waist and impressive hipspring – and beautifully mirror-matching the stripes to create perfect chevrons down the center front.
More stripes! Electra Designs is also accomplished in making sweetheart overbust corsets that lifts the bust to a natural level, with cups that round over the breast to keep the bust in place while looking both attractive yet tasteful. With a custom corset, the bustline can be raised to show almost no cleavage, or lowered to expose more of the décolletage while still feeling safe and secure in your corset.
Other corsetieres who can accommodate full-busted clients include:
Eikhell wrote the manual on supporting large busts – literally! Isabelle, the corsetiere behind Eikhell, wrote a two-part instructional article on Foundations Revealed, showing other corsetieres how to fit and support heavy busts with overbust corsets.
Jupiter Moon 3 (Currently on Maternity Leave and not taking commissions) is incredibly talented at making corsets for all shapes and sizes, and she does not shy away from ample-busted clientele. Jennifer has said that the overbust corset shown above in 2011 was the most custom overbust she has ever made, and she’s won the respect of top-heavy women everywhere. Her bare-bones made-to-measure overbust corsets start at $250 and she offers a huge number of upgrades and further customization in styles.
Romantasy Exquisite Corsetry is owned by Ann Grogan of San Francisco, and she leads a team of several corsetieres, each of whom have their own specializations. Whether you have a large frame or small frame, apple shaped or hourglass, there is a custom corset that is likely to fit and flatter your body. Seen above you can see how a fuller bust is supported and shaped to comfort – shoulder straps are optional. In June 2020 Ann Grogan retired and Romantasy met a graceful conclusion.
Corsets Blvd Global used to make some incredibly curvaceous underbust and overbust options at mind-boggling prices (under $60 USD!) unfortunately their light burned bright and fast. They seemed to have their start on Ebay, where their quality corsets were a needle in a haystack of cheap bustiers. When their curvy overbust went viral, they quickly sold out, and couldn’t keep it in stock long thereafter — unfortunately it seems that they could not keep up with demand and the brand quietly disappeared.
*Please note that I have not personally tried every corset brand in this list, nor do I necessarily endorse every company featured in my Guided Galleries. This is for informational purposes only. Please visit your doctor if you would like to start corseting for any reason, and especially if you are searching for an overbust for medical purposes.
If you enjoyed this article, perhaps you would also like the Guide for Cupped Overbust Corsets.