Corsets that create a Conical Ribcage

Christian Dior’s “New Look” (1947) required a tight wasp waist with a preferably conical ribcage.

Rather than an hourglass silhouette, some people prefer their corsets to give them a more conical, tapered ribcage like what was so popular around the 1950’s New Look era. A human’s floating ribs (the 11th and 12th ribs) often have flexible joints, and they’re designed to swing in and out like a hinge with each breath you take. It is also possible for some individuals to train their ribs to be pushed inward, so they have a slightly tapered ribcage with or without the corset on.  There are arguably over 100 different makers who can cater to the conical ribcage to give that 50’s “wasp waist” look, but I will just show some of the corsets I’ve tried over the years, and some other particularly impressive corsets that I’ve found to give this shape.

As mentioned before, different ‘schools’ of corsetry have different definitions for silhouettes. I was first introduced to this style as the “wasp waist” silhouette, as rib shaping is often more demanding to wear compared to more rounded hourglass silhouettes. Others may call this the conical silhouette, or the ice-cream cone silhouette – so when purchasing a corset, do clarify what kind of silhouette you’re looking for.

Corsetieres, if you also specialize in making corsets with a conical ribcage and you have a photo to contribute to the gallery, you’re welcome to email them to me here. Safe for Work photos are preferred! Thank you!

What Katie Did Morticia underbust corset (£160 or $275). Model: Miss Miranda

What Katie Did has a special place in the OTR corset market. Their corsets are not quite Victorian, and not exclusively “modern”, but they fit nicely into the niche of 1940’s, 50’s and 60’s retro and pinup fashion. Arguably their most popular corset is the Morticia underbust corset ($275) named after the popular wasp-waisted character from the “Addams Family” show in the 1960’s. In my review of this corset, you’ll see it creates a very conical ribcage and a wide hip spring. Their Baby corset is cut from the same pattern, just shorter. See my Morticia review.

Isabella Corsetry’s Josephine underbust corset ($175 normally). Photo: Mitzi.

Isabella Corsetry‘s creations almost all have a slightly conical ribcage, but her Josephine underbust corset (normally $175; currently on sale for $140) is particularly well-known for its tapering ribcage and swelling hip spring. You can see my review of this corset here; the ribcage is just slightly more rounded than the Morticia above, which may be a bit more gentle-looking but still effectively training the ribs inward. They also have a new petite Josephine which is a bit shorter. See my Josephine review.

Morgana Femme Couture MF1333 underbust, £315. Model unknown.

Morgana Femme Couture has dozens of beautiful and high-quality corset selections, made in the UK. The majority of their corsets arguably feature a slightly conical or tapered ribcage; many of them Edwardian inspired like the longline piece seen above. They offer both ready-to-wear and made-to-measure options, with their cinchers starting at just £130. See my MFC review.

Sparklewren Phoenix underbust, starts at £300
Sparklewren Phoenix underbust, starts at £400

Sparklewren debuted a new line of limited edition, ready-to-wear underbust corsets in 2014 called the Phoenix, which was inspired by the construction of antique Bird’s Wing style corsets. These corsets have a great many panels (sometimes 30 panels!) with only one steel per panel, which allows the corset to shape the body very precisely and smooth around curves like no other. This shape lends itself very well to a dramatic wasp-waist and tapered ribs, to which model Aurelia can attest.

Clessidra Couture Wasp underbust, from £200. Model: Tessa Kuragi. Photo: Catherine Day
Clessidra Couture Wasp underbust, from £200. Model: Tessa Kuragi. Photo: Catherine Day

Also specializing in wasp waist/ conical silhouettes is Julia Bremble of Clessidra Couture/ Sew Curvy. Using only the highest quality materials available in Europe, Julia has the ability to turn the idea of a simple black short-hipped underbust corset into a stunning statement piece with her dramatic yet comfortable silhouette, and striking red flossing. Her underbusts start at just £200, or $325.

Morua Designs Peacock Overbust
Morua Designs Peacock Overbust. Photo: Chris Yates. Model: Camilla Yadgaroff

Gerry of Morua Designs demonstrates how her corsets create a beautiful conical silhouette here in her peacock-bedecked overbust! She specializes in bespoke corsetry, guaranteeing a couture experience – each corset is made to your requirements and measurements. Gerry works in both the US and in the UK at certain times of the year, and takes commissions in both areas. Overbust corsets start at £425, or about $695.

Mystic City Corsets are around $100. Model: Flora Jasper

MystiC City Corsets is a popular Ebay and Etsy brand which offers very curvy OTR corsets with straight ribs. This store specializes in small stocks (often just 3-4 corsets in each size) and their styles are constantly rotating with slight variations in proportions, so it’s likely that sooner or later a corset may pop up with the measurements you need. If you want to be certain of a perfect fit, Sylwia also takes custom commissions on a limited basis. 

My Contour Corset was very close to being perfect - it just needed perhaps 1.5 - 2" more length in the underbust, and tweaking around the hips.
Contour Corsets (from $595), modelled by myself (Lucy Corsetry)

Contour Corsets is very popular for summer mesh corsets that are designed to be strong enough for daily waist training, extreme reductions and stunning silhouettes. My own Contour Corset is one of my favourites in my collection. Since these corsets are all custom, Fran can make the silhouette more rounded/ hourglass if you prefer, or make the ribcage more tapered. Her corsets feature impressive hip springs, and Fran herself could even balance a glass of water on her own hip shelf! Prices start at $595 for the mesh corsets. See my Contour Corset review.

Bizarre Design underbusts start at €247 or about $338. Model: Marilyn Yusuf

Jeroen Van Der Klis, the engineer behind Bizarre Design, is especially known for a very distinctive wasp waist silhouette. The impressive silhouette and highly skilled corset construction has gotten the attention of the likes of Cathie Jung – Jeroen can fit the most challenging of bodies, and create a beautiful tapered ribcage for those who enjoy this aesthetic.

Yana Sinner modelling the Rock'n'Rose overbust by Sinner Couture ($490)
Yana Sinner modelling the Rock’n’Rose overbust by Sinner Couture ($490)

Yana Sinner is a corset model-turned corsetiere, and often showcases the impressive results of her own creations. Yana is capable of creating slightly different variations; you may notice some of her corsets are slightly rounded through the ribcage, while others are more conical. Her Rock’n’Rose overbust corset is an example of one of her more conical pieces; and this style also features large impressive hip gores to contribute to a very dramatic hip spring. Sinner Couture corsets can be made to your specifications and start at $300.

Jupiter Moon 3 underbust corset with conical ribcage, starts at $230. Model: Lauren WK

Jupiter Moon 3 has made over 1500 corsets (so far!) and her most popular style is the conical silhouette shown above. This is described as her “hourglass” silhouette when you order from her website; she also offers a more gentle, swooping “sloped curve” silhouette if you prefer. Jennifer achieves the conical ribs by hand-bending the flat steels at the sides to help mold the waist into this shape and contribute to a more impressive hip spring. Her standard sized underbusts start at just $160. See my JM3 review.

Doris Müller models her Corsets & More underbust, starts at €215

Corsets & More is a one-woman business by Doris Müller, located in the heart of Germany. Doris is capable of creating nearly every imaginable silhouette available, from extreme wasp, to pipestem, to gentle hourglass. Here you can see a beautifully sculpted wasp silhouette, with an impressively smooth finish on the cherry blossom Chinese brocade. Her underbust corsets start at €215 or $295.

Serindë corset, neck corset, train and skirt. Model unknown
Serindë corset, neck corset, train and skirt. Model unknown

Serindë Corsets is one of my favourite French designers; her overbust and longline underbust corsets tend to have a slightly straighter, conical ribcage which lends itself to a stunning silhouette. Serindë is regularly commissioned for couture outfits and formal gowns, and is known for her elegant use of lace, beading, Swarovski and flossing. She takes custom corset orders on a limited basis and can be found primarily on Etsy and DaWanda. See my Serinde corset review.

Heavenly Corsets made one of my first wasp-waist style corsets; they’re very affordable, starting at just £120 ($200).

Heavenly Corsets are made to measure in the UK, and offer corsets in a standard-spec option (for occasional use/ light lacing) or a waist training option (said to be strong enough for 23/7 use and extreme reductions). They are one of the more affordable brands for custom-fit corsets, with their pieces starting at just £120. See my Heavenly Corsets review.

*Please note that I have not personally tried every corset brand in this list, nor do I necessarily endorse every company in these guided galleries. This is for informational purposes only; please email any of the above makers to learn more about their corsets. Affiliate links help keep Lucy’s Corsetry online and keep these galleries free for everyone!

43 thoughts on “Corsets that create a Conical Ribcage

  1. Hello,

    I am trying to buy a conical corset by Heavenly Corsets (23/7 one) and am wondering about the pipe stem waist option. Is it necessary to permanently change my ribs, and if I choose it, how do I know whether to do 1, 1.5, or 2 inches as the reduction?

    1. Hi Kathleen, a pipestem is not necessary to train the ribs. I’d only suggest the pipestem if you genuinely love the look and feel of pipestem corsets, but this is normally an advanced option that lifestyle corseters choose after they’re more experienced with daily waist training. I haven’t heard of a single person starting with a pipestem.

  2. My ribs (especially the bottom ones) spread out during my second pregnancy. What corset do you recommend for tightening them back up and also tightening the waistline? I’m 5’2″ and 113lbs.

    1. Hi Rebecca, thanks so much for your comment. Which corset is best for you all depends on your current measurements. If you’re interested in a corset from my shop, I have a measuring tutorial and contact form on this page. If you’re looking for all different brands, you are welcome to use my free tool on Corset Database (this is totally free, just watch the tutorial on the home page. Alternatively I do have a mini-consultation service if you need extra help figuring out how to use the database!)

  3. Hi Lucy. I’m interested in not just wearing but becoming involved in the industry after years in the apparel industry. … my question is, I bought s corset and found in was easy to tighten at the top. I found I got hip tenderness . The bottom was like this / \.
    I wonder if I need a mired curved corset around my ribs. And curvery at the bottom? I can’t return as I’m in the South Pacific area. Return postage is to high.
    Any advice please. I feel think I’m curved then the corset I bought. Thank you.

    1. Please excuse my spell check which was zero !! 🙄

    2. Hi Lebornn, have you seen my article on shape of the corset gap, and the addendum (troubleshooting) article? It sounds like your corset does indeed need more space in the hips. Since you’re experienced with sewing, you can try to add hip gores to the bottom of your corset to create more room. Or you can sell your corset second hand, and use the funds towards a new corset that is more likely to fit you better. You’re welcome to use my corset database for free; there’s a good chance that at least one corset out there will fit you.

    3. So to clarify, the Gap is creating an A shape?there are videos on YouTube on what the shape of the corset means.

  4. Thank you so much, this is exactly what I was looking for!

    1. My pleasure Jocelyn, I’m glad you found it helpful!

      1. Hi Lucy, thank you so much for responding! I have a question about the Jupiter moon 3 corset that you reviewed on your channel in 2014. I remember you saying that it did not fit your bone structure and I was wondering (provided you still have it) if you might be interested in selling it? If not I totally understand and I apologies if this request is out of line. If you are interested though, I would love it if you could email me. Thanks again so much for all the amazing research, time and effort you have invested into educating people about the art of corsetry.

        1. Hi Jocelyn! I sold that corset off in 2016, I’m so sorry! But I do recommend checking out Jupiter Moon 3’s Etsy shop because she always has samples on sale.

          1. I totally understand. I will defiantly check that out, thank you so much.

  5. Thank you so so much for this whole site, I’ve wanted to waist train since I was 15 and now I’m done growing and got the all clear from my doctor at 21. This website is literally the best, easiest to navigate source of unbiased information out there and I am so grateful.
    I already have a pretty small almost conically shaped flexible ribcage and I love the conical silhouette. Since it would be my first corset would you recommend getting a cheaper one first to get used to it or saving up for the Mortica from WhatKatieDid? Or even startinf with a cincher first?

    1. Hi Bryony, thanks for your compliments! The biggest thing to consider is whether the corset fits your measurements properly – not all conical corsets fit the same way, some might be too curvy for you or not curvy enough! Some might be too long for you, while some might be way too short.
      I recommend checking out the tutorial on Corset Database so you know how to plug your measurements into the filter.
      Here is a place to start your search – the filters I’ve applied here are underbust corsets with a conical ribcage for less than $200.

  6. Love these showing! I’ve been looking into starting corset training for a while now but every thing i’ve tried rolls up!…i’m mildly active through the day and could use a thicker longer corset possibly a lace up due to the hook corsets rolling. i feel like it would assist in fixing my posture…..where do i go to look though?

    1. Hi Allyson, if you’d like my recommendation, I have a measuring tutorial and contact form on this page. I’ll see what your current measurements are and your personal goals, and let you know what would fit you best. :) Talk to you soon!

  7. I found this extremely useful in helping me through a lot of things. However, as you said in earlier posts, there is a difference between the wasp (conical shape) and the hourglass shape. From what I’ve seen, orchard corsets seems to be selling a lot of hourglass corsets. I’m looking for a wasp corset (I want to look like that) and can’t seem to find any websites that are really solid with fitting and manufacturing. I tried finding Jupiter moon 3 but can’t seem to land anywhere, do you know anywhere else or could you help me find the wasp corsets???

    Thank you so much this has been very helpful.

    1. Hi Evelyn, are you specifically looking for a custom fit conical corset? Or is off-the-rack fine for you? The most popular OTR conical corsets are almost invariably Isabella Corsetry, followed by a couple of styles by Mystic City. My Gemini corset is conical as well. If you want a custom fit one, pretty much any good corset maker will be able to accommodate this (conical rib corsets are arguably easier to draft compared to rounded-rib corsets) and it really depends on your location and the maker’s quality / skill.

  8. I am looking for a corset that will move my ribs inward. Right under my breasts they stick out horribly. This happened almost 10 years ago during pregnancy and never returned to normal. I’m hoping wearing a corset for a period of time will bring them back in as it seems they keep getting worse every year. Which corset would you recommend for this? I’m not even sure if there are any that will be small enough. I am 5’4 and roughly 95 lb’s. I look forward to hearing from you. Thank you!

    1. Hi Katy, I have a measuring tutorial and contact form here – I can’t give you a proper recommendation until I know your measurements, because everyone is shaped so very differently, and every corset design out there is shaped differently as well. Speak soon!

  9. Hi I got a RTW Josephine from Isabella corsetry that I’ve been admiring since I read your reviews to experience a tight-lacing or possible waist training since my measurements matched the chart, but idk why im too thin and the size 26 is completely large to me that almost closed completely without leaving me that delicious feeling of being hugged tight.
    I honestly dont know what to do since I live in Brazil and theres not brand that I know from here that would produce good conical rib corset since they are almost obsessed with the waist area than ribs and hips.

    1. Hi Victoria, what are your body measurements (ribcage, natural waist, and hips)? You mentioned that you got a size 26″ corset. Did you accidentally purchase a corset that’s the same size as your natural waist?

  10. Is there any affordable conical corsets? My budget is in the $60-$80 zone sadly :(. And would the CS-345 by Orchard Corset be considered a conical corset?

    1. Hi Julia, unfortunately you have to pay for quality. You could purchase a corset for $80 that might fall apart in 3 months, but it’s a better return on your money to buy a corset for twice as much that lasts you 10x as long.
      The CS-345 I would consider a “concave” or “U shape” silhouette but not a conical rib.
      Here are some selections on Corset Database (my sister site), I have filtered it to show conical rib corsets that are $100 or less.

  11. If you start out wearing hourglass shaped corsets, and then decide to try a conical shape after training your waist down, will you need to start over with a larger waist in order to train your ribs to shape conical?

    1. Hi Nita, I personally found that I didn’t have to size up when switching to a more conical rib shape – I bought the same size in the waist, but switched over to the different silhouette, that’s all. However, my ribs are fairly flexible to begin with. Of course, it also depends on what size you’re wearing currently – for many people, the lower ribcage is naturally 24 to 28 inches under all the flesh. If your corset is this size or larger, then you’ll primarily be shaping the muscle and adipose overtop, whereas if you’re currently wearing size 20″ corsets then it will have a much more drastic effect on your floating ribs.

  12. I just have a question. I don’t know much about corsets but I’m interested in one. I just don’t know what type. I long for the look in the morticia under bust corset but as of now I have no curve and no but. only boobs. Some say I’m shaped like a funnel and I hate it. Do I need to start off small?? And will this work to give me the curves?

    1. Hi Kimber,
      I can let you know if the Morticia will fit you if I know your measurements! I have a measuring tutorial here which you may find helpful. Cheers

  13. Would a Timeless Trends Hourglass corset be considered to have a conical ribcage? I’m trying to find a corset that I can stealth under a reasonably snug shirt on a regular basis, and I don’t want my silhouette to look too unnatural, which I heard tends to happen with any silhouette other than a more conical shape.

    1. Hi Val, the new hourglass silhouette is a slightly cupped ribcage – not the absolute cuppiest, so you may find that in a broader ribcage it still pulls in the floating ribs a bit more, but it’s not going to form your torso into a funnel shape. I’ve found that I can stealth fine in my Timeless Trends hourglass corsets, but every body is different.

  14. Hey, first off your blog is amazing and is so informational. I am looking for a corset to help place my ribs where they were prior to kids and give me my hourglass shape back. My measurements are:
    Underbust: 26 in
    Waist: 23.5 in
    High hip: 28.5 in
    Torso length: 12 in
    What type of corset would be best?

    1. Hi Kassi May, I can help you a bit better if I know more about you needs and preferences, like your budget, how compressible you are, how much previous experiences you have, etc. I’m happy to help you via my consultation service here. :)

  15. Hii.lucy,,,my name is parveen from hyderabad,india…i wanna purchase a corset but i dnt knw from where i purchase.which normally suited to my sensitive skin….plz suggest me can i purchase 4m online,which company,s corset should i use…n which fabric

    thank you

    1. Hello Parveen, if you live in a hot climate and you have sensitive skin, perhaps a mesh corset would be a good choice for you. All of the corsets in this gallery are available for commission, but if you want to stay with a low budget and have the corset shipped immediately, then stay with the OTR options at the top of the gallery.

  16. Hi lucy, good post, again.
    I have the impression that Jeroen usually prefers a more conical shape (or something in between hourglass and conical) , judging from almost all of his pictures. I’m glad to have finally purchased a beautiful piece from his.

  17. I strongly prefer the aesthetics and slimming effect of conical ribcage. I have just received my very first custom corset, 17.5″ Victorian longline from Morgana Femme Couture. The conical ribcage is surprisingly comfortable (my own ribcage is conical as well). The quality is simply amazing: sturdy construction, very neat stitching, and I especially like the grommets, the laces and heavy boning (24 bones with external channels, distributed very comfortably).
    Regrettably, I have some issues with the fit in the hips and upper ribs, but it can be partly my fault, maybe I should have submitted some additional measurements for drafting the extreme hipspring. I just did not know of such difficulties, it was my first custom commission. I would highly recommend the brand overall.

    1. Hey Alissa, bit off topic but could you tell me how long you waited for your order from MFC?
      I ordered mine back in the middle of March and still waiting :-/

  18. Hey, Lucy! Just wanted to pass on some info.

    I am looking into getting my first custom corset, and I love Jupiter Moon’s sense of aesthetics, but want a more cupped rib cage/classic hourglass shape. She said she was happy to modify the shape for me, so she will provide a less conical shape as well if requested.

  19. Hello Lucy. So how about the “opposite” of the conical waist — a more curved, comfy waist? I saw a few examples in your “extreme/pipestem” gallery that were described as “anatomical”… could this be what I’m looking for?

    1. Hi Naomi, yes I consider the hourglass (with a curved ribcage) to be the ‘opposite’ of the conical waist. It helps to bring in the waistline without compressing the ribcage very much. :)

  20. Oh my goodness…these are all so beautiful! Thank you so much for posting this (and the large bust list as well). I have been looking for a list of wasp waist corsets and I am exceptionally excited that Isabella Corsetry is now offering a shorter Josephine! I am short waisted and finding a good, curvy corset is tough. I am adding the Petite to my birthday wish list. <3

    1. I’m so glad it helped, Liz!

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