Corsets that create a Conical Ribcage

Last updated on July 23rd, 2021 at 12:41 am

Christian Dior’s “New Look” (1947) required a tight wasp waist with a preferably conical ribcage.

Rather than an hourglass silhouette, some people prefer their corsets to give them a more conical, tapered ribcage like what was so popular around the 1950’s New Look era. A human’s floating ribs (the 11th and 12th ribs) often have flexible joints, and they’re designed to swing in and out like a hinge with each breath you take. It is also possible for some individuals to train their ribs to be pushed inward, so they have a slightly tapered ribcage with or without the corset on.  There are arguably over 100 different makers who can cater to the conical ribcage to give that 50’s “wasp waist” look, but I will just show some of the corsets I’ve tried over the years, and some other particularly impressive corsets that I’ve found to give this shape.

As mentioned before, different ‘schools’ of corsetry have different definitions for silhouettes. I was first introduced to this style as the “wasp waist” silhouette, as rib shaping is often more demanding to wear compared to more rounded hourglass silhouettes. Others may call this the conical silhouette, or the ice-cream cone silhouette – so when purchasing a corset, do clarify what kind of silhouette you’re looking for.

Corsetieres, if you also specialize in making corsets with a conical ribcage and you have a photo to contribute to the gallery, you’re welcome to email them to me here. Safe for Work photos are preferred! Thank you!

OTR/RTW Conical Rib Corsets
Custom Conical Rib Corsets
Honorable Mentions (archived/retired)

OTR/RTW Conical Rib Corsets:


What Katie Did Morticia underbust corset ($230). Model: Miss Miranda

What Katie Did has a special place in the OTR corset market, having carved out a niche in 1940’s, 50’s and 60’s retro and pinup fashion. Arguably their most popular corset is the Morticia underbust corset ($275) named after the popular wasp-waisted character from the “Addams Family” show in the 1960’s. In my review of the older version of this corset, you’ll see it creates a very conical ribcage and a wide hip spring.

Timeless Trends Gemini Longline Underbust Corset, $131

Lucy’s very own own creation, the Gemini corset, was named after “the twins” (one being the conical rib, and the other being the round rib, so you are never limited by just having one silhouette!). Available in standard length (9 inch) and longline (11 inch) versions, as well as over 50 different colorways (including special orders), there may be a Gemini to suit every taste (as long as it fits your other measurements!). See the Gemini longline review/ feature video here.

Mystic City Corsets, MCC-125 Overbust Corset, $119

MystiC City Corsets is a popular OTR brand that had its humble beginnings on Ebay. It has now moved to Etsy and offers some of the curviest patterns in the OTR corset market, some with rounded ribs and some with straighter ribs. This store specializes in small stocks (often just 3-4 corsets in each size) and their styles are constantly rotating with slight variations in proportions, so it’s likely that sooner or later a corset may pop up with the measurements you need. Be sure to check both their website and Etsy as they sell different styles and sizes on each platform. 

Rebel Madness Waist Training Underbust Corset, $115

Rebel Madness is a run by Magda and Maciej, the incredibly RM duo in Poland, and RM is the first of the “Polish Trifecta” of OTR corsets. Their corsets are somehow lightweight, strong, beautiful and incredibly underpriced for their quality. I have already gushed about their grommets in multiple past reviews. See my review of their simple black underbust here.

PaperCats Underbust Corset, $55

PaperCats is a Polish brand (the second in the Corset Trifecta) and arguably the least expensive corset options on this list, with the cincher starting at just $55 USD. While their corsets are not the curviest, they are lightweight, fashionable and affordable, and their construction is strong enough to taper the ribcage. Many of their corsets are well-suited to those with shorter torsos, with even their longline corsets being only around 9 inches in length.

Restyle Wide Hip Underbust Corset €52 (about $61 USD)

Restyle is yet another affordable option in this list, at just €52 (about $61 USD). The third and last brand of the “Polish Corset Trifecta” on this list, the Restyle WH corset is a “short longline” corset designed for those who have a shorter torso, narrow ribs, and a wider pelvis. See my review of the Restyle WH corset.

Meschantes Waist Training Underbust Corset, $129

Meschantes corsets are made in the US at unbelievable prices, and often blur the line between OTR, RTW and custom. Their most popular design is the bare-bones closed-front waist training underbust, available in black or beige. This design sports a somewhat conical ribcage and mid-length rounded hip. I would recommend purchasing from their Etsy shop as communication is somewhat limited through their main website. See my review here.

Morgana Femme Couture MF1333 underbust, $517. Model unknown.

Morgana Femme Couture has dozens of beautiful and high-quality corset selections, made in the UK. The majority of their corsets arguably feature a slightly conical or tapered ribcage; many of them Edwardian inspired like the longline piece seen above. They offer both ready-to-wear and made-to-measure options. See my MFC review.

Isabella Corsetry’s Josephine underbust corset ($180 normally). Photo: Mitzi.

Isabella Corsetry‘s creations almost all have a slightly conical ribcage, but her Josephine underbust corset (normally $180; currently on sale for $144) is particularly well-known for its tapering ribcage and swelling hip spring. You can see my review of this corset here; the ribcage is just slightly more rounded than the Morticia above, which may be a bit more gentle-looking but still effectively training the ribs inward. They also have a new petite Josephine which is a bit shorter, and you can special order the Josephine as a custom option if desired.

Vanyanis Ruby Underbust Corset, $795 AUD. Model/photo: Threnody in Velvet.

The Vanyanis Ruby Corset may be RTW but it is truly in a league of its own. Lowana’s first collection featured the Ruby (above) and the longer hipped, silver-hued Lillian corset, both of which featured a distinctive Vanyanis conical silhouette and impeccable wrinkle-free finish. This corset is almost continuously boned, and smothered in lace – at $795, it’s a limited edition collector’s piece not to be taken lightly.

Custom Conical Rib Corsets:

Versatile Valerian Overbust Corset
Versatile Corsets Valerian Overbust Corset, $478

Versatile Corsets has a wide selection of patterns and styles; some with gentler silhouettes and others with more curvaceous silhouettes; some with more rounded ribs, and this Valerian off-shoulder overbust which is designed to have a more conical fit, with contrastic tapering panels contributing to an even more dramatic visual effect. Every Versatile corset is made in California so American clients can feel good about purchasing sustainable, ethical and local. See my review of this very same Valerian overbust, here.

Wyte Phantom Conical Overbust Corset, Modeled by @ambellinauk, Headdress by @patine_noire, Photography by @newo_imagery

Jennifer of Wyte Phantom is a UK based designer with an ongoing project to clear her neverending fabric stash by making some of the most breathtaking samples in a variety of sizes on Etsy. Wyte Phantom corsets are usually one of a kind, but they all have the same “fingerprint”; their patterns usually feature a conical rib and front panel shapes, and often fit well for those who are long-waisted.

Dark Garden “Sweetheart” Overbust Corset, $645 Photo by Joel Aron.
Dark Garden has two locations, their original base in San Francisco CA, and their newer boutique in New Orleans LA. Quite possibly the oldest brand in this list, Dark Garden has been around for over 30 years and has extensive experience drafting any rib shape and for any body type, even medical grade corsets. See my review of Dark Garden’s Valentine overbust here, which is a modified sweetheart for those who are a little more top-heavy.
Valkyrie Corsets Bellecurve Underbust, $385. Model: Miss Deadly Red.

Geraldine is a one-woman business in the UK who runs the immensely popular Valkyrie Corsets. Several of her made-to-order styles like the Bellecurve (shown above) sport a very conical rib and dramatic-yet-graceful hip spring, but she is capable of customizing the pattern to suit your preference and comfort, as well as tweaking the length of her corsets (shorter, standard or longer).

L’Atelier de LaFleur (Toronto, Canada) Underbust Corset

L’Atelier de LaFleur usually focuses on opulent, luxurious showpieces, but every so often Mina does take the odd order for a simpler commission, like these “twin” corsets in red rose coutil. Mina has been in the business for the better part of 20 years, and has extensive knowledge in drafting anatomical-shaped corsets, extreme round rib corsets, as well as conical rib corsets seen here.

Clessidra Couture Wasp underbust, from £200. Model: Tessa Kuragi. Photo: Catherine Day
Clessidra Couture Wasp underbust, from £400. Model: Tessa Kuragi. Photo: Catherine Day

Also specializing in wasp waist/ conical silhouettes is Julia Bremble of Clessidra Couture/ Sew Curvy (Now JB Corsets). Using only the highest quality materials available in Europe, Julia has the ability to turn the idea of a simple black short-hipped underbust corset into a stunning statement piece with her dramatic yet comfortable silhouette, and striking red flossing. Her underbusts start at £400.

Morua Designs Peacock Overbust
Morua Designs Peacock Overbust. Photo: Chris Yates. Model: Camilla Yadgaroff

Gerry of Morua Designs demonstrates how her corsets create a beautiful conical silhouette here in her peacock-bedecked overbust! She specializes in bespoke corsetry, guaranteeing a couture experience – each corset is made to your requirements and measurements. Gerry works in both the US and in the UK at certain times of the year, and takes commissions in both areas. Overbust corsets start at $900.

Waisted Creations Overbust Corset, Photo/model: Threnody In Velvet (PDF Corset Pattern is also available on the website)

Waisted Creations (UK) has a specific aesthetic as well, often patterning for a small, tapered ribcage and fuller cupped hips. After having carefully honed her craft for years, Lucy is now capable of creating incredibly smooth, wrinkle-free silk designs with painstakingly matched lace embellishment.

Bizarre Design underbusts start at €251 or about $296. Model: Marilyn Yusuf

Jeroen Van Der Klis, the engineer behind Bizarre Design, is especially known for a very distinctive wasp waist silhouette. The impressive silhouette and highly skilled corset construction has gotten the attention of the likes of Cathie Jung – Jeroen can fit the most challenging of bodies, and create a beautiful tapered ribcage for those who enjoy this aesthetic.

Innova Corsetry Wasp Waist Underbust Corset

A very early piece from Innova Corsetry (Puerto Rico, USA) for a very long-waisted, tapered-rib customer with the measurements 30″ (rib), 20″ (waist), 36″ (hip) with posture-correcting shoulder straps, contrast rib and hip gores, and a most impressive hip shelf. Innova has since honed their aesthetic and primarily make gorgeous corset dresses and men’s corset vests.

Orchard Corset CS-479 Extreme Curve Underbust Corset, $87

Orchard Corset‘s only “level 4″ or Extreme Curve corset, the CS-479, is said to sport an impressive 9″ rib spring and up to 16” hip spring! This has a conical rib and a gently cupped hip, and is meant for extra-compressible or extra-experienced folks.

Yana Sinner modelling the Rock'n'Rose overbust by Sinner Couture ($490)
Yana Sinner modelling the Rock’n’Rose overbust by Sinner Couture ($308)

Yana Sinner is a corset model-turned corsetiere, and often showcases the impressive results of her own creations. Yana is capable of creating slightly different variations; you may notice some of her corsets are slightly rounded through the ribcage, while others are more conical. Her Rock’n’Rose overbust corset is an example of one of her more conical pieces; and this style also features large impressive hip gores to contribute to a very dramatic hip spring. Sinner Couture corsets can be made to your specifications and start at $288.

Jupiter Moon 3 underbust corset with conical ribcage. Model: Lauren WK

Jupiter Moon 3 has made over 1500 corsets (so far!) and her most popular style is the conical silhouette shown above. This is described as her “hourglass” silhouette when you order from her website; she also offers a more gentle, swooping “sloped curve” silhouette if you prefer. Jennifer achieves the conical ribs by hand-bending the flat steels at the sides to help mold the waist into this shape and contribute to a more impressive hip spring. (Currently on Maternity Leave) See my JM3 review.

Doris Müller models her Corsets & More underbust, starts at €340

Corsets & More was a one-woman business by Doris Müller (Now under new management), located in the heart of Germany. They are capable of creating nearly every imaginable silhouette available, from extreme wasp, to pipestem, to gentle hourglass. Here you can see a beautifully sculpted wasp silhouette, with an impressively smooth finish on the cherry blossom Chinese brocade. Underbust corsets start at €340 or $400.

Lace Embrace Wasp Waist Underbust Corset, Modeled by Talita and Christina

Lace Embrace Atelier (Vancouver, BC Canada) offers several historical / historically inspired and modern designs, including the Wasp Waist underbust which has a quintessential Edwardian “swoop” in its pattern! Edwardian corsets are better known for their straight front and conical rib, and often dramatic cupped hip in the sides and back (sometimes for padding, sometimes for booty). Melanie can customize the fabric, color and even the front closure (if you look closely, you’ll see that the black corset has a zipper closure).

Retrofolie Underbust Corset

Julianne of Retrofolie (Montreal, QC Canada) is better known for her incredible classical art painting pattern-matched corsets, but this more simple floral broche design highlights her patterning skills. Her corsets are usually straight in the front, with a conical ribcage and a sweeping hip spring – she developed her patterns to optimize the ease of pattern-matching while also fitting the body comfortably with a moderate cinch.

Heavenly Corsets made one of my first wasp-waist style corsets; they’re very affordable, starting at just £120 ($200).

Heavenly Corsets are made to measure in the UK, and offer corsets in a standard-spec option (for occasional use/ light lacing) or a waist training option (said to be strong enough for 23/7 use and extreme reductions). They are one of the more affordable brands for custom-fit corsets, with their pieces starting at just £120. See my Heavenly Corsets review.

Rainbow Curve Corsetry “Opal Garden” Overbust Corset, Modeled by Kitty of Crimson Rose Corsetry

Several years ago, Kitty Krell commissioned several talented corsetieres around the world to make their their own unique version of an “opal” corset, to curate a very particular personal collection. What you see above is the hand-painted creation of Switzerland-based Joni of Rainbow Curve Corsetry. Kitty requires a conical rib from her corsets in order to stabilize her ribs from subluxing, and Joni’s strong, curvaceous pattern stood up to the challenge with ease. See also the incredible hip shelf!

Crimson Rose Corsetry and Couture Wasp Waist Overbust Corset

The aforementioned Kitty is also a talented corsetiere in her own right, as the owner of Crimson Rose Corsetry and Couture. Above is Kitty’s own wedding corset, designed to be worn under her wedding dress. The pattern started as a collaboration between Kitty and Lowana of Vanyanis; two layers of natural bobbinet were hand-dyed for a subtle opalescent hue, with individually dyed external boning channels encrusted with Swarovski crystals, and finally embellished with iridescent lace – all makes for a truly one of a kind, breathtaking overbust with an impressively conical rib especially for a more flexible fabric as the bobbinet.


~Honorable Mentions~

Angela Stringer Studio Overbust Corset


Sparklewren Phoenix underbust, starts at £300
Sparklewren Phoenix underbust

Sparklewren debuted a new line of limited edition, ready-to-wear underbust corsets in 2014 called the Phoenix, which was inspired by the construction of antique Bird’s Wing style corsets. These corsets have a great many panels (sometimes 30 panels!) with only one steel per panel, which allows the corset to shape the body very precisely and smooth around curves like no other. This shape lends itself very well to a dramatic wasp-waist and tapered ribs, to which model Aurelia can attest.

My Contour Corset was very close to being perfect - it just needed perhaps 1.5 - 2" more length in the underbust, and tweaking around the hips.
Contour Corsets (from $595), modelled by myself (Lucy Corsetry)

Contour Corsets was very popular for summer mesh corsets that were designed to be strong enough for daily waist training, extreme reductions and stunning silhouettes. My own Contour Corset is one of my favourites in my collection. Since these corsets were all custom, Fran could make the silhouette more rounded/ hourglass if you preferred, or make the ribcage more tapered. Her corsets featured impressive hip springs, and Fran herself could even balance a glass of water on her own hip shelf!  See my Contour Corset review.

Serindë corset, neck corset, train and skirt. Model unknown
Serindë corset, neck corset, train and skirt. Model unknown

Serindë Corsets’ overbust and longline underbust corsets tend to have a slightly straighter, conical ribcage which lends itself to a stunning silhouette. Serindë is regularly commissioned for couture outfits and formal gowns, and is known for her elegant use of lace, beading, Swarovski and flossing. She has stopped taking commissions but some of her samples can be found primarily on Etsy. See my Serinde corset review.

*Please note that I have not personally tried every corset brand in this list, nor do I necessarily endorse every company in these guided galleries. This is for informational purposes only; please email any of the above makers to learn more about their corsets. Affiliate links help keep Lucy’s Corsetry online and keep these galleries free for everyone!

44 thoughts on “Corsets that create a Conical Ribcage

  1. Hello,

    I am trying to buy a conical corset by Heavenly Corsets (23/7 one) and am wondering about the pipe stem waist option. Is it necessary to permanently change my ribs, and if I choose it, how do I know whether to do 1, 1.5, or 2 inches as the reduction?

    1. Hi Kathleen, a pipestem is not necessary to train the ribs. I’d only suggest the pipestem if you genuinely love the look and feel of pipestem corsets, but this is normally an advanced option that lifestyle corseters choose after they’re more experienced with daily waist training. I haven’t heard of a single person starting with a pipestem.

      1. Oooh, I’m super glad I stumbled across this post!!! I don’t know how I never saw orchard corsets extreme curve underbust. I need a 16-18″ hip spring just for normal lacing alone having a natural hourglass figure, so that is really cool to see!

  2. My ribs (especially the bottom ones) spread out during my second pregnancy. What corset do you recommend for tightening them back up and also tightening the waistline? I’m 5’2″ and 113lbs.

    1. Hi Rebecca, thanks so much for your comment. Which corset is best for you all depends on your current measurements. If you’re interested in a corset from my shop, I have a measuring tutorial and contact form on this page. If you’re looking for all different brands, you are welcome to use my free tool on Corset Database (this is totally free, just watch the tutorial on the home page. Alternatively I do have a mini-consultation service if you need extra help figuring out how to use the database!)

  3. Hi Lucy. I’m interested in not just wearing but becoming involved in the industry after years in the apparel industry. … my question is, I bought s corset and found in was easy to tighten at the top. I found I got hip tenderness . The bottom was like this / \.
    I wonder if I need a mired curved corset around my ribs. And curvery at the bottom? I can’t return as I’m in the South Pacific area. Return postage is to high.
    Any advice please. I feel think I’m curved then the corset I bought. Thank you.

    1. Please excuse my spell check which was zero !! 🙄

    2. Hi Lebornn, have you seen my article on shape of the corset gap, and the addendum (troubleshooting) article? It sounds like your corset does indeed need more space in the hips. Since you’re experienced with sewing, you can try to add hip gores to the bottom of your corset to create more room. Or you can sell your corset second hand, and use the funds towards a new corset that is more likely to fit you better. You’re welcome to use my corset database for free; there’s a good chance that at least one corset out there will fit you.

    3. So to clarify, the Gap is creating an A shape?there are videos on YouTube on what the shape of the corset means.

  4. Thank you so much, this is exactly what I was looking for!

    1. My pleasure Jocelyn, I’m glad you found it helpful!

      1. Hi Lucy, thank you so much for responding! I have a question about the Jupiter moon 3 corset that you reviewed on your channel in 2014. I remember you saying that it did not fit your bone structure and I was wondering (provided you still have it) if you might be interested in selling it? If not I totally understand and I apologies if this request is out of line. If you are interested though, I would love it if you could email me. Thanks again so much for all the amazing research, time and effort you have invested into educating people about the art of corsetry.

        1. Hi Jocelyn! I sold that corset off in 2016, I’m so sorry! But I do recommend checking out Jupiter Moon 3’s Etsy shop because she always has samples on sale.

          1. I totally understand. I will defiantly check that out, thank you so much.

  5. Thank you so so much for this whole site, I’ve wanted to waist train since I was 15 and now I’m done growing and got the all clear from my doctor at 21. This website is literally the best, easiest to navigate source of unbiased information out there and I am so grateful.
    I already have a pretty small almost conically shaped flexible ribcage and I love the conical silhouette. Since it would be my first corset would you recommend getting a cheaper one first to get used to it or saving up for the Mortica from WhatKatieDid? Or even startinf with a cincher first?

    1. Hi Bryony, thanks for your compliments! The biggest thing to consider is whether the corset fits your measurements properly – not all conical corsets fit the same way, some might be too curvy for you or not curvy enough! Some might be too long for you, while some might be way too short.
      I recommend checking out the tutorial on Corset Database so you know how to plug your measurements into the filter.
      Here is a place to start your search – the filters I’ve applied here are underbust corsets with a conical ribcage for less than $200.

  6. Love these showing! I’ve been looking into starting corset training for a while now but every thing i’ve tried rolls up!…i’m mildly active through the day and could use a thicker longer corset possibly a lace up due to the hook corsets rolling. i feel like it would assist in fixing my posture…..where do i go to look though?

    1. Hi Allyson, if you’d like my recommendation, I have a measuring tutorial and contact form on this page. I’ll see what your current measurements are and your personal goals, and let you know what would fit you best. :) Talk to you soon!

  7. I found this extremely useful in helping me through a lot of things. However, as you said in earlier posts, there is a difference between the wasp (conical shape) and the hourglass shape. From what I’ve seen, orchard corsets seems to be selling a lot of hourglass corsets. I’m looking for a wasp corset (I want to look like that) and can’t seem to find any websites that are really solid with fitting and manufacturing. I tried finding Jupiter moon 3 but can’t seem to land anywhere, do you know anywhere else or could you help me find the wasp corsets???

    Thank you so much this has been very helpful.

    1. Hi Evelyn, are you specifically looking for a custom fit conical corset? Or is off-the-rack fine for you? The most popular OTR conical corsets are almost invariably Isabella Corsetry, followed by a couple of styles by Mystic City. My Gemini corset is conical as well. If you want a custom fit one, pretty much any good corset maker will be able to accommodate this (conical rib corsets are arguably easier to draft compared to rounded-rib corsets) and it really depends on your location and the maker’s quality / skill.

  8. I am looking for a corset that will move my ribs inward. Right under my breasts they stick out horribly. This happened almost 10 years ago during pregnancy and never returned to normal. I’m hoping wearing a corset for a period of time will bring them back in as it seems they keep getting worse every year. Which corset would you recommend for this? I’m not even sure if there are any that will be small enough. I am 5’4 and roughly 95 lb’s. I look forward to hearing from you. Thank you!

    1. Hi Katy, I have a measuring tutorial and contact form here – I can’t give you a proper recommendation until I know your measurements, because everyone is shaped so very differently, and every corset design out there is shaped differently as well. Speak soon!

  9. Hi I got a RTW Josephine from Isabella corsetry that I’ve been admiring since I read your reviews to experience a tight-lacing or possible waist training since my measurements matched the chart, but idk why im too thin and the size 26 is completely large to me that almost closed completely without leaving me that delicious feeling of being hugged tight.
    I honestly dont know what to do since I live in Brazil and theres not brand that I know from here that would produce good conical rib corset since they are almost obsessed with the waist area than ribs and hips.

    1. Hi Victoria, what are your body measurements (ribcage, natural waist, and hips)? You mentioned that you got a size 26″ corset. Did you accidentally purchase a corset that’s the same size as your natural waist?

  10. Is there any affordable conical corsets? My budget is in the $60-$80 zone sadly :(. And would the CS-345 by Orchard Corset be considered a conical corset?

    1. Hi Julia, unfortunately you have to pay for quality. You could purchase a corset for $80 that might fall apart in 3 months, but it’s a better return on your money to buy a corset for twice as much that lasts you 10x as long.
      The CS-345 I would consider a “concave” or “U shape” silhouette but not a conical rib.
      Here are some selections on Corset Database (my sister site), I have filtered it to show conical rib corsets that are $100 or less.

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