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Corsets that create a Conical Ribcage

Christian Dior’s “New Look” (1947) required a tight wasp waist with a preferably conical ribcage.

Rather than an hourglass silhouette, some people prefer their corsets to give them a more conical, tapered ribcage like what was so popular around the 1950’s New Look era. A human’s floating ribs (the 11th and 12th ribs) often have flexible joints, and they’re designed to swing in and out like a hinge with each breath you take. It is also possible for some individuals to train their ribs to be pushed inward, so they have a slightly tapered ribcage with or without the corset on.  There are arguably over 100 different makers who can cater to the conical ribcage to give that 50’s “wasp waist” look, but I will just show some of the corsets I’ve tried over the years, and some other particularly impressive corsets that I’ve found to give this shape.

As mentioned before, different ‘schools’ of corsetry have different definitions for silhouettes. I was first introduced to this style as the “wasp waist” silhouette, as rib shaping is often more demanding to wear compared to more rounded hourglass silhouettes. Others may call this the conical silhouette, or the ice-cream cone silhouette – so when purchasing a corset, do clarify what kind of silhouette you’re looking for.

Corsetieres, if you also specialize in making corsets with a conical ribcage and you have a photo to contribute to the gallery, you’re welcome to email them to me here. Safe for Work photos are preferred! Thank you!

What Katie Did Morticia underbust corset (£160 or $275). Model: Miss Miranda

What Katie Did has a special place in the OTR corset market. Their corsets are not quite Victorian, and not exclusively “modern”, but they fit nicely into the niche of 1940’s, 50’s and 60’s retro and pinup fashion. Arguably their most popular corset is the Morticia underbust corset ($275) named after the popular wasp-waisted character from the “Addams Family” show in the 1960’s. In my review of this corset, you’ll see it creates a very conical ribcage and a wide hip spring. Their Baby corset is cut from the same pattern, just shorter. See my Morticia review.

Isabella Corsetry’s Josephine underbust corset ($175 normally). Photo: Mitzi.

Isabella Corsetry‘s creations almost all have a slightly conical ribcage, but her Josephine underbust corset (normally $175; currently on sale for $140) is particularly well-known for its tapering ribcage and swelling hip spring. You can see my review of this corset here; the ribcage is just slightly more rounded than the Morticia above, which may be a bit more gentle-looking but still effectively training the ribs inward. They also have a new petite Josephine which is a bit shorter. See my Josephine review.

Morgana Femme Couture MF1333 underbust, £315. Model unknown.

Morgana Femme Couture has dozens of beautiful and high-quality corset selections, made in the UK. The majority of their corsets arguably feature a slightly conical or tapered ribcage; many of them Edwardian inspired like the longline piece seen above. They offer both ready-to-wear and made-to-measure options, with their cinchers starting at just £130. See my MFC review.

Sparklewren Phoenix underbust, starts at £300

Sparklewren Phoenix underbust, starts at £400

Sparklewren debuted a new line of limited edition, ready-to-wear underbust corsets in 2014 called the Phoenix, which was inspired by the construction of antique Bird’s Wing style corsets. These corsets have a great many panels (sometimes 30 panels!) with only one steel per panel, which allows the corset to shape the body very precisely and smooth around curves like no other. This shape lends itself very well to a dramatic wasp-waist and tapered ribs, to which model Aurelia can attest.

Clessidra Couture Wasp underbust, from £200. Model: Tessa Kuragi. Photo: Catherine Day

Clessidra Couture Wasp underbust, from £200. Model: Tessa Kuragi. Photo: Catherine Day

Also specializing in wasp waist/ conical silhouettes is Julia Bremble of Clessidra Couture/ Sew Curvy. Using only the highest quality materials available in Europe, Julia has the ability to turn the idea of a simple black short-hipped underbust corset into a stunning statement piece with her dramatic yet comfortable silhouette, and striking red flossing. Her underbusts start at just £200, or $325.

Morua Designs Peacock Overbust

Morua Designs Peacock Overbust. Photo: Chris Yates. Model: Camilla Yadgaroff

Gerry of Morua Designs demonstrates how her corsets create a beautiful conical silhouette here in her peacock-bedecked overbust! She specializes in bespoke corsetry, guaranteeing a couture experience – each corset is made to your requirements and measurements. Gerry works in both the US and in the UK at certain times of the year, and takes commissions in both areas. Overbust corsets start at £425, or about $695.

Mystic City Corsets are around $100. Model: Flora Jasper

MystiC City Corsets is a popular Ebay and Etsy brand which offers very curvy OTR corsets with straight ribs. This store specializes in small stocks (often just 3-4 corsets in each size) and their styles are constantly rotating with slight variations in proportions, so it’s likely that sooner or later a corset may pop up with the measurements you need. If you want to be certain of a perfect fit, Sylwia also takes custom commissions on a limited basis. 

My Contour Corset was very close to being perfect - it just needed perhaps 1.5 - 2" more length in the underbust, and tweaking around the hips.

Contour Corsets (from $595), modelled by myself (Lucy Corsetry)

Contour Corsets is very popular for summer mesh corsets that are designed to be strong enough for daily waist training, extreme reductions and stunning silhouettes. My own Contour Corset is one of my favourites in my collection. Since these corsets are all custom, Fran can make the silhouette more rounded/ hourglass if you prefer, or make the ribcage more tapered. Her corsets feature impressive hip springs, and Fran herself could even balance a glass of water on her own hip shelf! Prices start at $595 for the mesh corsets. See my Contour Corset review.

Bizarre Design underbusts start at €247 or about $338. Model: Marilyn Yusuf

Jeroen Van Der Klis, the engineer behind Bizarre Design, is especially known for a very distinctive wasp waist silhouette. The impressive silhouette and highly skilled corset construction has gotten the attention of the likes of Cathie Jung – Jeroen can fit the most challenging of bodies, and create a beautiful tapered ribcage for those who enjoy this aesthetic.

Yana Sinner modelling the Rock'n'Rose overbust by Sinner Couture ($490)

Yana Sinner modelling the Rock’n’Rose overbust by Sinner Couture ($490)

Yana Sinner is a corset model-turned corsetiere, and often showcases the impressive results of her own creations. Yana is capable of creating slightly different variations; you may notice some of her corsets are slightly rounded through the ribcage, while others are more conical. Her Rock’n’Rose overbust corset is an example of one of her more conical pieces; and this style also features large impressive hip gores to contribute to a very dramatic hip spring. Sinner Couture corsets can be made to your specifications and start at $300.

Jupiter Moon 3 underbust corset with conical ribcage, starts at $230. Model: Lauren WK

Jupiter Moon 3 has made over 1500 corsets (so far!) and her most popular style is the conical silhouette shown above. This is described as her “hourglass” silhouette when you order from her website; she also offers a more gentle, swooping “sloped curve” silhouette if you prefer. Jennifer achieves the conical ribs by hand-bending the flat steels at the sides to help mold the waist into this shape and contribute to a more impressive hip spring. Her standard sized underbusts start at just $160. See my JM3 review.

Doris Müller models her Corsets & More underbust, starts at €215

Corsets & More is a one-woman business by Doris Müller, located in the heart of Germany. Doris is capable of creating nearly every imaginable silhouette available, from extreme wasp, to pipestem, to gentle hourglass. Here you can see a beautifully sculpted wasp silhouette, with an impressively smooth finish on the cherry blossom Chinese brocade. Her underbust corsets start at €215 or $295.

Serindë corset, neck corset, train and skirt. Model unknown

Serindë corset, neck corset, train and skirt. Model unknown

Serindë Corsets is one of my favourite French designers; her overbust and longline underbust corsets tend to have a slightly straighter, conical ribcage which lends itself to a stunning silhouette. Serindë is regularly commissioned for couture outfits and formal gowns, and is known for her elegant use of lace, beading, Swarovski and flossing. She takes custom corset orders on a limited basis and can be found primarily on Etsy and DaWanda. See my Serinde corset review.

Heavenly Corsets made one of my first wasp-waist style corsets; they’re very affordable, starting at just £120 ($200).

Heavenly Corsets are made to measure in the UK, and offer corsets in a standard-spec option (for occasional use/ light lacing) or a waist training option (said to be strong enough for 23/7 use and extreme reductions). They are one of the more affordable brands for custom-fit corsets, with their pieces starting at just £120. See my Heavenly Corsets review.

*Please note that I have not personally tried every corset brand in this list, nor do I necessarily endorse every company in these guided galleries. This is for informational purposes only; please email any of the above makers to learn more about their corsets. Affiliate links help keep Lucy’s Corsetry online and keep these galleries free for everyone!

18 comments

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  1. Nita

    If you start out wearing hourglass shaped corsets, and then decide to try a conical shape after training your waist down, will you need to start over with a larger waist in order to train your ribs to shape conical?

    1. Boo Bobobob

      Hi Nita, I personally found that I didn’t have to size up when switching to a more conical rib shape – I bought the same size in the waist, but switched over to the different silhouette, that’s all. However, my ribs are fairly flexible to begin with. Of course, it also depends on what size you’re wearing currently – for many people, the lower ribcage is naturally 24 to 28 inches under all the flesh. If your corset is this size or larger, then you’ll primarily be shaping the muscle and adipose overtop, whereas if you’re currently wearing size 20″ corsets then it will have a much more drastic effect on your floating ribs.

  2. kimber

    I just have a question. I don’t know much about corsets but I’m interested in one. I just don’t know what type. I long for the look in the morticia under bust corset but as of now I have no curve and no but. only boobs. Some say I’m shaped like a funnel and I hate it. Do I need to start off small?? And will this work to give me the curves?

    1. Boo Bobobob

      Hi Kimber,
      I can let you know if the Morticia will fit you if I know your measurements! I have a measuring tutorial here which you may find helpful. Cheers

  3. Val

    Would a Timeless Trends Hourglass corset be considered to have a conical ribcage? I’m trying to find a corset that I can stealth under a reasonably snug shirt on a regular basis, and I don’t want my silhouette to look too unnatural, which I heard tends to happen with any silhouette other than a more conical shape.

    1. Boo Bobobob

      Hi Val, the new hourglass silhouette is a slightly cupped ribcage – not the absolute cuppiest, so you may find that in a broader ribcage it still pulls in the floating ribs a bit more, but it’s not going to form your torso into a funnel shape. I’ve found that I can stealth fine in my Timeless Trends hourglass corsets, but every body is different.

  4. Kassi May

    Hey, first off your blog is amazing and is so informational. I am looking for a corset to help place my ribs where they were prior to kids and give me my hourglass shape back. My measurements are:
    Underbust: 26 in
    Waist: 23.5 in
    High hip: 28.5 in
    Torso length: 12 in
    What type of corset would be best?

    1. Boo Bobobob

      Hi Kassi May, I can help you a bit better if I know more about you needs and preferences, like your budget, how compressible you are, how much previous experiences you have, etc. I’m happy to help you via my consultation service here. 🙂

  5. Parveen Begum

    Hii.lucy,,,my name is parveen from hyderabad,india…i wanna purchase a corset but i dnt knw from where i purchase.which normally suited to my sensitive skin….plz suggest me can i purchase 4m online,which company,s corset should i use…n which fabric

    thank you

    1. Boo Bobobob

      Hello Parveen, if you live in a hot climate and you have sensitive skin, perhaps a mesh corset would be a good choice for you. All of the corsets in this gallery are available for commission, but if you want to stay with a low budget and have the corset shipped immediately, then stay with the OTR options at the top of the gallery.

  6. Linda

    Hi lucy, good post, again.
    I have the impression that Jeroen usually prefers a more conical shape (or something in between hourglass and conical) , judging from almost all of his pictures. I’m glad to have finally purchased a beautiful piece from his.

  7. Alissa

    I strongly prefer the aesthetics and slimming effect of conical ribcage. I have just received my very first custom corset, 17.5″ Victorian longline from Morgana Femme Couture. The conical ribcage is surprisingly comfortable (my own ribcage is conical as well). The quality is simply amazing: sturdy construction, very neat stitching, and I especially like the grommets, the laces and heavy boning (24 bones with external channels, distributed very comfortably).
    Regrettably, I have some issues with the fit in the hips and upper ribs, but it can be partly my fault, maybe I should have submitted some additional measurements for drafting the extreme hipspring. I just did not know of such difficulties, it was my first custom commission. I would highly recommend the brand overall.

    1. P

      Hey Alissa, bit off topic but could you tell me how long you waited for your order from MFC?
      I ordered mine back in the middle of March and still waiting :-/

  8. Cat T.

    Hey, Lucy! Just wanted to pass on some info.

    I am looking into getting my first custom corset, and I love Jupiter Moon’s sense of aesthetics, but want a more cupped rib cage/classic hourglass shape. She said she was happy to modify the shape for me, so she will provide a less conical shape as well if requested.

  9. Naomi

    Hello Lucy. So how about the “opposite” of the conical waist — a more curved, comfy waist? I saw a few examples in your “extreme/pipestem” gallery that were described as “anatomical”… could this be what I’m looking for?

    1. Boo Bobobob

      Hi Naomi, yes I consider the hourglass (with a curved ribcage) to be the ‘opposite’ of the conical waist. It helps to bring in the waistline without compressing the ribcage very much. 🙂

  10. Liz

    Oh my goodness…these are all so beautiful! Thank you so much for posting this (and the large bust list as well). I have been looking for a list of wasp waist corsets and I am exceptionally excited that Isabella Corsetry is now offering a shorter Josephine! I am short waisted and finding a good, curvy corset is tough. I am adding the Petite to my birthday wish list. <3

    1. Boo Bobobob

      I’m so glad it helped, Liz!

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