This entry is supplementary to the video “Plus-Size Corseters” which you can watch on YouTube here:

***Note! If you would like to see which corset makers and brands offer plus size corsets, use my free guide HERE.***

Larger people can usually tolerate larger waist reduction

If you have a little more to start with, than chances are you can reduce down more than a smaller person. Think of waist reduction as a percentage: say two people are both able to cinch their waists down by 20%. One has a 24 inch waist while the other has a 38 inch waist. The person with a 24″ waist will be able to cinch down 4.8 inches, down to 19.2″. The other corseter is able to cinch down an incredible 7.6 inches, to a corseted waist of 30.4″. Of course, this depends on your amount of visceral fat vs subcutaneous fat, your muscle tone, etc., but chances are if your waist is above 34 inches, you will be able to start with a corset 5-6 inches smaller than your natural waist rather than the recommended 3-4 inches by most corset retail sites.

Romantasy has several corsetieres on Ann's team, some of which specialize in corsets for large busts
Overbust corset for a fuller bust, made by a member of Romantasy’s fantastic corsetiere team.

Larger corseters, larger busts

If you are large-busted, it may be tempting to order an overbust corset for the extra support, as overbusts take much of the bust-related strain off your lower back. However, I recommend that women start with an underbust corset regardless of size, the main reasons being that underbusts are easier to breathe and move around in, they’re more versatile, and they’re easier to construct and get the proper fit, and thus they almost always cost less than overbusts. For more detail about this, watch my video above.

If you order an underbust corset, you will have to wear it with a separate bra. I recommend you have the top line of your corset end at least 1 inch lower than the underwire of your bra, to prevent chafing. Alternatively, wear bras that do not have underwires, such as sports bras, post-operative compression bras. I have personally had success with the Genie Bra (for a short while); it gives support while not giving an unattractive back roll between the bra band and corset. You can also wear your bra overtop of your corset to prevent that “double lift” so you don’t end up with a chin rest, and this also prevents chafing from the underwire.

Remember the law of displacement

Flesh doesn’t disappear in a corset; it has to move somewhere. For many tightlacers (especially the ones that are a little larger to start with) I recommend ordering a corset with underbust and hip circumferences 1 inch or so larger than your natural measurements, so the compressed flesh has somewhere to go.

In terms of the shape of the corset, I recommend corsets with a high back which gently cups around the flesh of the high back instead of giving “muffin-top”, and I recommend mid-hip or long-line corsets which cup the flesh around the hips to smooth out your silhouette.

The number of panels matter (to a point)

My first custom corset only had 8 panels (4 on each side) but currently I prefer my corsets to have 12 or more panels. More panels help to customize the shape of the corset pattern so it fits every contour of your body just the way you want it. More panels also help to distribute extreme curves more evenly so each smaller panel looks closer to parallel in shape as opposed to fewer, larger panels with extreme deviations in measurements – how more narrow panels help is that they allow a smoother line and fewer wrinkles in the corset when done right – i.e. combined with proper sewing techniques and enough bones, which leads us to the next tip…

The number of bones matter (to a point)

Luscious Pearl Designs modeling her own historical recreation of the 1862 Strauss patent corded demibust corset

Some corsetieres recommend placing a minimum of one bone every 2 inches around the waist of a corset – this means a corset with a 36 inch waist would have no less than 18 bones in it, while a corset with an 20 inch waist may only have 10 bones. This means that not all corsets should be made the same! When ordering a corset, I would advise requesting double boning from the corsetiere – although this will be more expensive, it will eliminate much of the wrinkling and buckling in the corset fabric, allowing for more support, a smoother line on your body, and therefore a much more comfortable experience. If you’re sewing a corset yourself, I would advise placing at least 1 bone every 2 inches around the waist of the corset. The easiest way to do this is likely to place one bone at each seam and another bone in the center of each panel.

Health

Although it is not always the case, larger people tend to carry a higher risk of hypertension (high blood pressure). Combined with a slightly raised blood pressure contributed by tightlacing, one has to be careful to maintain an acceptable level and minimize their risk for stroke. Please monitor your blood pressure carefully, as one can’t actually feel their blood pressure rising. If you experience light-headedness, swollen extremities (particularly legs and feet) or your heart pounding harder than normal when you lace up your corset, do check your blood pressure with a monitor.

In the next post I will go into more detail about corsets and blood pressure, as well as clearing up the “fainting” rumours surrounding corseted ladies.

Lucy’s Little Life Lesson: You’re beautiful at any size.

*Please note that this article is strictly my opinion and provided for information purposes. It is not intended to replace the advice of a medical doctor. Please talk to your doctor if you’d like to start wearing a corset.*

9 thoughts on “Tips for Full-Figured Corseters

    • Lucy says:

      Hi Angie, Orchard Corset goes up to 46 in some styles, and Timeless Trends up to 44 in some styles – both of these corset brands are under $100 for most of their corsets. There are also plenty of corsetieres who can make you something custom to fit your body perfectly – but this is more expensive. I have a gallery of plus size corsets here.

  1. Toney says:

    I have had 4 kids and my youngest is about 3 months. I have a lot of extra belly fat (I’m 4’11” with a 38″ fluffy waist). If I put the corset on without adjusting, it sits too high and has a ton of flesh oozing at the bottom, but if I pull the fat into the corset like I heard you recommend in one of your videos, it sits better, but all the fat is sitting in the top under my bust just sort of folded up (Gross, I know.) How am I supposed to wear it so it’s right and helps shape my waist properly? I can’t find anything on that.

    • Lucy says:

      Hi Toney, it sounds like you might need a longer corset in general so it supports both your lower abdomen and cups the flesh around your back and ribs. The waist of the corset should always sit at your skeletal waist (the part with no bones, below your ribs and above your hips). Cheers

  2. Claire says:

    I just tried on my first corset. I don’t know if it is too short. The top is 2 inches below my breasts – unless I pull it up, but then it seems high on my abdomen. Also I can close it completely at the top back. Does this mean it is too big? It feels comfortable and makes a huge difference to my shape. But I look as though I have enormous shoulders and chest when I wear it – partly because there is a huge fat roll coming out the top. I doubt I can afford a custom made corset. Should I wear the one I’ve got or buy a different one?

    • Lucy Corsetry says:

      Hi Claire, I have a long torso as well and some OTR corsets will stop a few inches below my bustline. I prefer to have the corset sitting at my proper (skeletal) waistline and having the corset cover my abdomen appropriately, rather than pull the corset up higher. I have a video about that here. Plus when you go to sit down, having your corset lower down will prevent the corset from pushing up your bust. Since it sounds like your corset needs more room in the hips (has an “A” shaped lacing gap) you may find that an OTR corset with hip ties doesn’t break the bank, and it also gives you more room in the hips to make the lacing more parallel in the back. :)

      • Deb says:

        What about the fat roll at the top in the back? I have a pretty even lace gap in the back but horrible issue with muffin back! I have the timeless trends long line black cashmere. It fits perfectly and looks great, until I turn around!

        • Lucy says:

          Hi Deb, do you have the hourglass longline or the slim longline? The hourglass version has much more room in the ribs and can hold in the flesh that displaces upwards. A bit of muffin top can be smoothed over using the right bra (that has fabric extending along the entire back, and is not too tight in the band) but the best way to combat muffin top is to use a corset that is larger in the ribcage. Some people “squish up” and so their underbust measurement increases by 1-2 inches (or more) when they’re wearing a corset, compared to not wearing one. Unfortunately the direction and amount of displacement can’t be accurately predicted until you’re actually in a corset (which is why mockup fittings during custom corset commissions are so important).

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