Note that this post is a copy of the same one under the “Research Corset Brands –> Guided Galleries” menu. It is part of a collection of articles to help corset enthusiasts shop more wisely.
Christian Dior’s “New Look” (1947) required a tight wasp waist with a preferably conical ribcage.
Rather than an hourglass silhouette, some people prefer their corsets to give them a more conical, tapered ribcage like what was so popular around the 1950’s New Look era. A human’s floating ribs (the 11th and 12th ribs) often have flexible joints, and they’re designed to swing in and out like a hinge with each breath you take. It is also possible for some individuals to train their ribs to be pushed inward, so they have a slightly tapered ribcage with or without the corset on. There are arguably over 100 different makers who can cater to the conical ribcage to give that 50’s “wasp waist” look, but I will just show some of my personal favourites, and some particularly impressive corsets that I’ve found to give this shape.
As mentioned before, different ‘schools’ of corsetry have different definitions for silhouettes. I was first introduced to this style as the “wasp waist” silhouette, as rib shaping is often more demanding to wear compared to more rounded hourglass silhouettes. Others may call this the conical silhouette, or the ice-cream cone silhouette – so when purchasing a corset, do clarify what kind of silhouette you’re looking for.
Corsetieres, if you also specialize in the conical rib, ‘wasp’ silhouette and you have a photo to contribute to the gallery, you’re welcome to email them to me here. Safe for Work photos are preferred! Thank you!
What Katie Did Morticia underbust corset (£160 or $275). Model: Miss Miranda
What Katie Did has a special place in the OTR corset market. Their corsets are not quite Victorian, and not exclusively “modern”, but they fit nicely into the niche of 1940’s, 50’s and 60’s retro and pinup fashion. Arguably their most popular corset is the Morticia underbust corset ($275) named after the popular wasp-waisted character from the “Addams Family” show in the 1960’s. In my review of this corset, you’ll see it creates a very conical ribcage and a wide hip spring. Their Baby corset is cut from the same pattern, just shorter.
Isabella Corsetry’s Josephine underbust corset ($175 normally). Model unknown.
Isabella Corsetry‘s creations almost all have a slightly conical ribcage, but her Josephine underbust corset (normally $175; currently on sale for $140) is particularly well-known for its tapering ribcage and swelling hip spring. You can see my review of this corset here; the ribcage is just slightly more rounded than the Morticia above, which may be a bit more gentle-looking but still effectively training the ribs inward. They also have a new petite Josephine which is a bit shorter.
Morgana Femme Couture MF1333 underbust, £315. Model unknown.
Morgana Femme Couture has dozens of beautiful and high-quality corset selections, made in the UK. The majority of their corsets arguably feature a slightly conical or tapered ribcage; many of them Edwardian inspired like the longline piece seen above. They offer both ready-to-wear and made-to-measure options, with their cinchers starting at just £95.
Sparklewren Phoenix underbust, starts at £300. Model: Aurelia
Sparklewren debuted a new line of limited edition, ready-to-wear underbust corsets this year called the Phoenix, which was inspired by the construction of antique Bird’s Wing style corsets. These corsets have a great many panels (sometimes 30 panels!) with only one steel per panel, which allows the corset to shape the body very precisely and smooth around curves like no other. This shape lends itself very well to a dramatic wasp-waist and tapered ribs, to which model Aurelia can attest.
Clessidra Couture Wasp underbust, from £200. Model: Tessa Kuragi. Photo: Catherine Day
Also specializing in wasp waist/ conical silhouettes is Julia Bremble of Clessidra Couture/ Sew Curvy. Using only the highest quality materials available in Europe, Julia has the ability to turn the idea of a simple black short-hipped underbust corset into a stunning statement piece with her dramatic yet comfortable silhouette, and striking red flossing. Her underbusts start at just £200, or $325.
Morua Designs Peacock Overbust. Photo: Chris Yates. Model: Camilla Yadgaroff
Gerry of Morua Designs demonstrates how her corsets create a beautiful conical silhouette here in her peacock-bedecked overbust! She specializes in bespoke corsetry, guaranteeing a couture experience – each corset is made to your requirements and measurements. Gerry works in both the US and in the UK at certain times of the year, and takes commissions in both areas. Overbust corsets start at £425, or about $695.
Mystic City Corsets are around $100. Model: Flora Jasper
MystiC City Corsets is a popular Ebay brand which offers very curvy OTR corsets with straight ribs. This store specializes in small stocks (often just 3-4 corsets in each size) and their styles are constantly rotating with slight variations in proportions, so it’s likely that sooner or later a corset may pop up with the measurements you need. If you want to be certain of a perfect fit, Sylwia also takes custom commissions on a limited basis.
Contour Corsets (from $595), modelled by myself (Lucy Corsetry)
Contour Corsets is very popular for summer mesh corsets that are designed to be strong enough for daily waist training, extreme reductions and stunning silhouettes. My own Contour Corset is one of my favourites in my collection. Since these corsets are all custom, Fran can make the silhouette more rounded/ hourglass if you prefer, or make the ribcage more tapered. Her corsets feature impressive hip springs, and Fran herself could even balance a glass of water on her own hip shelf! Prices start at $595 for the mesh corsets.
Bizarre Design underbusts start at €247 or about $338. Model: Marilyn Yusuf
Jeroen Van Der Klis, the engineer behind Bizarre Design, is especially known for a very distinctive wasp waist silhouette. The impressive silhouette and highly skilled corset construction has gotten the attention of the likes of Cathie Jung – Jeroen can fit the most challenging of bodies, and create a beautiful tapered ribcage for those who enjoy this aesthetic.
Yana Sinner modelling the Rock’n’Rose overbust by Sinner Couture ($490)
Yana Sinner is a corset model-turned corsetiere, and often showcases the impressive results of her own creations. Yana is capable of creating slightly different variations; you may notice some of her corsets are slightly rounded through the ribcage, while others are more conical. Her Rock’n’Rose overbust corset is an example of one of her more conical pieces; and this style also features large impressive hip gores to contribute to a very dramatic hip spring. Sinner Couture corsets can be made to your specifications and start at $300.
Jupiter Moon 3 hourglass underbusts start at $160. Model: Lauren WK
Jupiter Moon 3 has made over 1500 corsets (so far!) and her most popular style is the conical silhouette shown above. This is described as her “hourglass” silhouette when you order from her website; she also offers a more gentle, swooping “sloped curve” silhouette if you prefer. Jennifer achieves the conical ribs by hand-bending the flat steels at the sides to help mold the waist into this shape and contribute to a more impressive hip spring. Her standard sized underbusts start at just $160.
Doris Müller models her Corsets & More underbust, starts at €215
Corsets & More is a one-woman business by Doris Müller, located in the heart of Germany. Doris is capable of creating nearly every imaginable silhouette available, from extreme wasp, to pipestem, to gentle hourglass. Here you can see a beautifully sculpted wasp silhouette, with an impressively smooth finish on the cherry blossom Chinese brocade. Her underbust corsets start at €215 or $295.
Serindë corset, neck corset, train and skirt. Model unknown
Serindë Corsets is one of my favourite French designers; her overbust and longline underbust corsets tend to have a slightly straighter, conical ribcage which lends itself to a stunning silhouette. Serindë is regularly commissioned for couture outfits and formal gowns, and is known for her elegant use of lace, beading, Swarovski and flossing. She takes custom corset orders on a limited basis and can be found primarily on Etsy and DaWanda.
Heavenly Corsets made one of my first wasp-waist style corsets; they’re very affordable, starting at just £120 ($200).
Heavenly Corsets had made one of my very first wasp-waist style corsets, and my first back-lacing waist trainer. Their corsets are made to measure in the UK, and offer corsets in a standard-spec option (for occasional use/ light lacing) or a waist training option (said to be strong enough for 23/7 use and extreme reductions). They are one of the more affordable brands for custom-fit corsets, with their pieces starting at just £120.
*Please note that I have not personally tried every corset brand in this list, nor do I necessarily endorse every company in these guided galleries. This is for informational purposes only; please email any of the above makers to learn more about their corsets.