Archive | June, 2012

Eternal Spirits “AUDREY” Overbust Corset Review

22 Jun

This entry is a summary of the review video “Eternal Spirits AUDREY Corset Review” which you can watch on YouTube here:

Fit, length Front is about 14 inches high, with a straight top line. From the waist to the top is 7 inches, which is barely enough to keep everything covered on me – it would be good for short to average torso length. If you order this corset made to measure and talk to the makers at ES, they *may* adjust the vertical measurements. Soft hourglass shape; gives good hipspring (no pinching!). I would not consider this longline. This corset would probably be best suited for cup sizes up to C.
Material 2 layers from what I can tell; fashion layer is mixed fibers, feels like a nylon blend, and is either very thick/strong or is fused to a strength fabric underneath. It has a lovely finish, almost like sharkskin. Lining is pink polyester satin-like fabric.
Construction 11 panel pattern (odd number because of the closed front). The fashion/strength layers were assembled, with double boning channels on each seam; the lining is floating and attached to the outer layers like a pillowcase, then turned right-side out through a 5″ hole in the lining – that hole was then stitched neatly closed.
Binding None, due to the construction method.
Waist tape None that I can feel or see.
Modesty panel Attached 5″ wide fabric lacing protector on the back made of the same blue “sharkskin” and lined in pink satin. It can be removed if desired.
Busk None; closed front.
Boning 24 steel bones. 20 spirals (1/4″ wide), double boned on the seams, 4 flats (1/4″ wide) sandwiching the grommets.
Grommets 22 grommets total, size #00 two-part grommets with moderate flange; set equidistantly, no splits, no wear/fraying/pulling out from the fabric.
Laces Strong double-face satin blue ribbon, 5/8″ wide; difficult to snap and they glide through the grommets smoothly, although I wish that they were longer so I wouldn’t have to remove the laces to put on/ take off the corset.
Price Satin version of this (with front lacing) is currently £210 in the UK, or $335 USD – however I found mine for sale in an online boutique so do check places like Ebay. This corset is also sold by Fairy GothMother (Lulu & Lush)

Final Thoughts:
This is one of my more expensive off-the-rack corsets. I was initially apprehensive about how strong it is and how well it would hold up, due to its lack of waist tape and the few layers of fabric. However this fabric has a strong, dense weave and is deceptively strong, while still giving a soft look. During breaking in, this corset didn’t stretch any more than other corsets. On the day of the banquet, I wore this corset for more than 15 hours, with a 4 inch reduction and it was surprisingly comfortable (although I did open up the top to give more room in the bust). However I would still not recommend ordering this corset more than 2-4 inches smaller than your natural waist. My favourite part about this corset is its unusual construction; I love the fact that it doesn’t have binding and has a completely floating lining.

How Corsets Heal: 20 Benefits

16 Jun lucyav

For centuries, we’ve heard people harp on about the risks, dangers, and allegedly “misogynistic” uses of corsets. But is it possible that a corset can benefit a person, or even assist in healing them? To me, corsets were always much more than just vanity – they were armour. There is a reason that my avatar shows me wearing a helmet and corset together. (Yes, because it’s silly, but also because they’re synonymous.)

One person may look at a Trojan helmet and say, “Look at this torture device. Can you imagine wearing a heavy dome of metal on your head in blistering heat? Don’t you know that helmets represent war, and war is bad? Don’t you know that helmets cut off your peripheral vision, and so figuratively represents ‘blinders’? Why won’t you liberate yourself, and take off that helmet?”

Only the owner of that helmet knows how many times his helmet had saved his life in battle. Today, many of our “battles” are fought from inside our own bodies.

While reading through over 100 entries for my latest giveaway contest, I came to the realization that corsets can help and heal people in many ways – physically, mentally, emotionally. It affects much more than our egos and bank accounts. Sometimes corsets become our therapy, our medical devices, and to some, even part of our identity.

Without divulging personal information, here is a (by no means exhaustive) list of how corsets have helped a few of my viewers in the past:

Physical Benefits

  1. Corsets help minimize back pain and correct posture, to help those with past injuries (e.g. car accidents, slipped discs), neurological disorders (e.g. tics, ataxia) and autoimmune disorders (e.g. osteoarthritis, fibromyalgia).
  2. Corsets prevent scoliosis patients from worsening of their curvature once they no longer have a brace, or they may be used to prevent back pain from the curve.
  3. By extension, correct posture also helps prevent other skeletal issues. One viewer has experienced relief from her plantar fasciitis while wearing a corset because of the redistribution of her weight on her feet. I have experienced considerable pressure taken off my knees since wearing corsets (bad knees run in my family), as corsets have changed the way I sit and stand.
  4. Corsets are used as lumbar support to prevent potential back issues, and give support during work — eg during heavy lifting, repeated tasks or long hours in front of a computer.
  5. Corsets are used to reshape and feminize the figures of transgendered women, or genetic women with deformities or undesirable figures.
  6. Corsets are also worn by men who need back support – a custom fit piece can help them keep a masculine physique, so they don’t have to worry about any feminizing effects or stigma of off-the-rack corsets meant for women.
  7. Corsets are sometimes used by singers as a support; they provide resistance against which the diaphragm can push, which can help the singer achieve higher or more powerful notes.
  8. Corsets can also help to protect the organs during horse-riding or motorcycling, holding the kidneys in place and preventing bruising of the retroperitoneal organs.
  9. Corsets are helpful in minimizing menstrual cramps in women. Many women temporarily relieve their dysmenorrhea by lying in the fetal position, which exerts pressure on the peritoneal organs and somewhat decreases the painful uterine contractions. Corsets can mimic this position by exerting pressure on these same organs, reducing uterine contractions (and thus cramping) while her posture remains erect.
  10. Corsets can prevent hiatus hernias by exerting external pressure on the abdomen, or can prevent hernias from worsening (they can also help minimize the pain from one) if they’ve already occurred.
  11. Corsets can sometimes help to heal diastasis recti, the splitting of the abdominal muscles (postpartum) by holding the muscles together and preventing them from separating further.
  12. Corsets are used as a weight loss aid – they do not allow much expansion of the stomach, thus helping to control appetite and reduce food portions.
  13. Corsets give some women an hourglass shape that they may never be able to achieve naturally (through diet and exercise). Medications like steroids or conditions like thyroid abnormalities or PCOS make weight loss nearly impossible. Corsets can change a woman’s figure (through redistribution of adipose tissue) when it seems that nothing else helps.

Mental/ Emotional Benefits

  1. Converse to the previous point, many women have been able to overcome their eating disorders and learn to embrace and celebrate their curves by wearing a corset. Many have gained and maintained a healthy weight, since their girth and eating habits are “controlled” by the corset.
  2. Corsets can boost the self-image of those with low self esteem, and encourage a greater notion of self-worth – this can apply to those with poor body image and those who have been emotionally abused.
  3. Corsets are worn by many to ward off depression or anxiety – the corset feels like a secure, constant hug, which is naturally comforting to many people, the way that being swaddled is comforting to a child. Pressure on the abdomen can also somewhat negate the “butterfly in stomach” and nausea symptoms associated with anxiety.
  4. Corsets act as a coat of armour and a mode of “physical” therapy for those who have been physically abused in the past. People who have been physically or sexually abused may feel safe by wearing a corset, as it is a rigid garment with steel and often many layers of fabric, making it difficult to feel physical contact of anyone “outside” the corset.

Benefits with Societal Impact

  1. Corsets improve a person’s carriage and give the wearer a certain poise –  the air of confidence, high self-esteem and assertiveness, whether or not they may feel confident that day. This body language – straight posture, chest high, shoulders back – silently demands respect from others. The corseted may notice that colleagues may start to treat him/her with more respect, and over time s/he may come to expect this better treatment, regardless of the corset.
  2.  Many people simply revel in owning a custom, personal luxury item. Corsets are one of the most personalized luxuries, as many corsetieres take no less than 14 measurements of the body to ensure the corset perfectly fits the wearer. A corset will be exclusively made for the owner and no one else, both in fit and in fabric/embellishment specifications, and is often one of a kind. Owning such a piece can figuratively lift the owner out of mediocrity, helping to separate them from the rest of society in their mind, and filling a certain need to be a “special snowflake.”
  3. Perhaps the most prominent would be the fact that women today are liberated and empowered to wear what they like. In Western culture, women are not forced to comply with hard fashion rules; they are free to choose what to wear and what not to wear, in almost any combination. (This is why I love corsets paired with trousers!) Feminists who wear corsets are quite common, and are quite aware of a superficial sense of irony, but it all comes down to expressing oneself in the way one sees fit.
To say that a corset has never caused harm to any wearer would be a lie. However, to claim that a corset has never benefited any wearer would be a bigger lie. To those who have never experienced a corset, I would never force one on you – but I at least encourage you to look past the frills, the “fetishy” connotations, and the volatile history, to what a modern corset is able to do for its wearer. You’d be hard-pressed to find another simple garment that has the potential to help, or even heal, a person in all the ways that a corset can.
*Please note that this article is strictly for information purposes and not intended to replace the advice of a medical doctor. Please talk to your doctor if you’d like to start wearing a corset.*

Totally Waisted! Black Taffeta Underbust Corset Review

13 Jun

This entry is a summary of the review video “Totally Waisted! Black Taffeta Underbust Corset Review” which you can watch on YouTube here:

*****

This is the first of a few reviews of custom corsets made by individual corsetieres. I’d like to celebrate the work of small businesses and the artists of the corsetry world! This video is a review of the “not so typical” black underbust corset, made by Kate, the owner of Totally Waisted! (The ! is part of the name.) I met Kate in downtown Toronto this past spring; it was my first experience having a professional mockup fitting done by another corsetiere! Her artistry combined with her great business ethic and her spunky nature made for a fun and smooth experience overall.

Fit, length Center front is 13 inches, height from underbust to lap is 10.5 inches, however this version was made to measure. This is a longline corset (goes over the hips); the back has a unique sweeping lower edge that is both flattering and comfortable. I would recommend a shape like this for anyone who has had issues with lower edges of other corsets poking into their lower back or top of bum.
Material Two layers: fashion fabric is black taffeta, strength layer German coutil. The coutil has the tightest weave of any coutil I’ve seen before and it’s insanely strong. There is no additional liner; the stitching is neat enough that a liner isn’t needed to hide the “guts”, and Kate also likes to make her corsets as light and unbulky as possible.
Embellishments include lace overlay in large motifs (which is mirror-matched) and black Swarovski crystals, hand-set.
Construction 5 panels per side – gives a curvy, wrinkle-free shape. It feels as though the coutil and taffeta were treated as one layer. All boning channels (except for the pair by the grommets) are external channels – all spring steel bones.
Binding Made from matching strips of black taffeta, neatly machine stitched on both outside and inside. Extra care was taken to make the corners/edges neat and match up properly
Waist tape Waist tape is about 1″ wide, visible on the inside of the corset, secured at front and back panels and also by the stitching of the boning channels. Even though it’s exposed, it is not uncomfortable in any way.
Modesty panel No modesty panel as Kate designs her corsets to close completely in the back. She makes these corsets to order, so the waist size is of your choosing. There is a placket extending from the knob side of the busk to prevent pinching or skin from showing through.
Busk 11” long with 5 pins, a standard busk -  ½” wide on each side, although it is reinforced with a bone on each side. When I had this corset made to measure, I was given the option of several different lengths of busks. As I have a long torso, this was a great asset.
Boning 24 steel bones total, not including busk. All of them are spring steel (flat) bones. The front and back are sturdier to keep the line straight, but the bones on the sides are made of a special more flexible spring steel to accommodate curves.
Grommets 24 grommets total, size #00 two-part grommets with moderate flange; set equidistantly, no splits, no wear/fraying/pulling out of grommets.
Laces The laces are 1” wide black double-faced satin ribbon, very strong, pretty, and holds its bows reasonably well. The ribbon can glide smoothly through the grommets with no catching.
Price Standard size for this corset is $325 USD, and if you’d like made to measure with mockup, it’s an additional $40.

Final thoughts:
This corset really isn’t your typical black underbust. Due to its custom fit (and its comfort), its lightness and its sparkly embellishment, this has replaced the majority of my other black underbusts. I’d love to work with Kate again in the future.

What Katie Did Silk “STORM” Corset Review

1 Jun

This entry is a summary of the review video “WKD STORM Corset Review” which you can watch on YouTube here:

Fit, length Front is about 14.5 inches high; the highest part (from the apex of the bust) is 15.5 inches high. Gives a nice hourglass/ wasp silhouette. Appropriate for average torso length. Includes hip gores, gives good hipspring (no pinching!). It is slightly longline so I’d recommend this cut for those who want to hide lower-tummy pooch. I would also recommend this for larger-busted women with a cup size of C or more. Smaller sizes can use bust inserts.
Material 3 layers; fashion layer is 100% raw silk, and the lining and interlining are both 100% ivory cotton twill. External channels and binding are made from ivory velvet.
Construction 5 panel pattern, 2 hip gores per side. External boning channels, a floating liner (very comfortable). Also has 6 garter tabs.
Binding Ivory velvet binding neatly machine stitched on both inside and outside.
Waist tape 1″ wide invisible waist tape between the interlining and lining.
Modesty panel Attached 7″ wide fabric lacing protector on the back made of ivory silk and twill; also includes a stiffened placket under busk.
Busk Standard flexible busk (1/2″ wide on each side) about 12″ long (6 pins), backed with a 1″ wide stiffener on each side. Also has a bone on either side of the busk for reinforcement.
Boning 22 steel bones not including busk. 16 spirals (1/4″ wide) in external channels, 4 flats (1/4″ wide) sandwiching the grommets, also two spirals beside the busk.
Grommets 24 grommets total, size #0 two-part grommets with moderate flange; set equidistantly, no splits, no wear/fraying/pulling out of grommets
Laces Strong nylon braided shoe-lace style laces; they’re thick, they grip well and they are long enough. Has some spring to the lace but very difficult to break.
Price Plain satin version of this is currently £179.50 in the UK, or $275 USD – however do check What Katie Did’s ebay boutique as they do sometimes list corsets on discount. I bought mine for half price!

Final Thoughts:
The Storm overbust has immediately become my favourite cut of the “What Katie Did” overbust corsets. I like the large hipspring from the hip gores, as well as the roomy (and safe!) bust. After buying this one, I have no desire to try out the “larger” bust versions of Laurie or Sophia – I like the Storm that much. I may remove the bow in the future and just have a hook-and-eye secure the front, since bows aren’t often my thing. Maybe it’s because it’s a new style, but I feel that the Storm is higher quality than the previous WKD overbusts I had reviewed; with its double boning and reinforced busk. I would have probably preferred the black satin version since it’s more versatile, but this was the right price. Also, after all the compliments I got with the ivory against my skin tone; I’ve definitely warmed up to this colour, heehee. ;)

You can see this corset and others at What Katie Did’s website.

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