Responding to Media Sensationalism… Again.

10 May

One of my lovely friends had shared this video with me yesterday evening, in which one reporter uncovers the hidden dangers of living in the Victorian era. Not surprisingly, corsets were featured (the corset segment starts around the 17:50 mark).

I would like to address some of the concerns mentioned in the video. Now, I’m not going to make sweeping generalizations and say that corsets are everyone’s friend. I don’t believe that everybody should wear corsets and I don’t deny that injuries from corsets have occurred on occasion. But I’m willing to believe that corset-related injuries were more the exception than the norm – just like injuries from everyday beauty products today, like:

  • high heels (bunions, broken toes, hammer toes, corns, modification of posture/weight distribution, broken and sprained ankles)
  • hairstyling products (thermal burns, chemical burns and severe allergies to certain products)
  • pierced ears (infections, keloid scarring, tissue necrosis)

I could go on.

Anyways – onto addressing some of the concerns in the video:

Continue reading →

Tags: , , , , ,

The 5 most important factors of an OTR corset

8 May

I very much admire Marianne Faulkner of Pop Antique/ Dark Garden for her most recent article on The Lingerie Addict, defending ready-to-wear corsets. I’ve already discussed my stance on OTR/RTW corsets last year – they are a good jumping board into the world of corsetry. In light of Marianne’s article, and also piqued by a recent forum discussion on whether or not cheaper OTR companies should even be promoted, I would like to outline what I consider the 5 most important factors when it comes to OTR corsets (and the companies that make/ distribute them).

Although this list is in no real particular order, most clients will agree that the first three factors are most important to them – but all 5 should be taken into consideration. Generally speaking, I think that there is no OTR company that gets a full 5 stars – but then again, you’d be hard-pressed to find any maker or company that will receive all 5 stars, all the time. If you want the best quality, you have to pay for it.

Without further ado:

1. Strength

Is the corset going to hold up to regular use/ the rigors of tight lacing? You should familiarize yourself with the company or brand, and consider their main clientele. Do they usually use the corset for costumes or burlesque shows, in which the corset gives a strong cinch, but only worn for about an hour at a time? If so, they may not necessarily hold up to giving a strong cinch 24/7. There’s a difference between simply tightlacing occasionally, and training on a daily basis!

2. Silhouette/ fit

Will it be comfortable and give you the shape you desire? When it comes to an OTR piece, some compromise will almost always be made. I consider myself very lucky to have fairly “standard” measurements, so many OTRs are comfortable and more-or-less flattering on me. But not everyone will have the same experience. This is why my shape/fit sections of corset reviews are really subjective. I’ve provided my natural measurements on this page so people can compare their proportions with mine before purchasing a corset.

3. Price

Does it fit your budget, or are you willing to save up for a more expensive piece? Remember where you save on price, you may have to sacrifice strength of construction, quality of materials, or comfort/ silhouette. I very much like Marianne’s quote “When you are corset shopping, that is not the time to bargain hunt.”

4. Customer service

Do they help you find your correct size before you order? Are they even familiar with their own corsets in the first place? Do they respond to emails within a week? (The very good ones respond within 1-2 days.) Does your corset come with a refund or exchange policy, or guarantee? I have ordered from a few corsetieres who make absolutely beautiful and strong pieces, but their customer service was lacking. (They would rarely answer emails or they would be short/curt with their responses.) Whether this is important really depends on the person, and also how demanding the client is. When it comes to an OTR company, some exchange/return policies may be available – but when it comes to custom-made corsets, unless there is something structurally wrong with your corset right out of the box, don’t expect independent corsetieres to bend over backwards at your requests. (I will make a video about this at a later date.)

5. Global impact

Is the company resourceful with materials? Do they make use of sweatshops? Some clients consider it very important to have no glue (including fusibles) and no synthetic materials in their corsets. Some companies accommodate this, while others don’t. Other clients would like to have the convenience of an OTR corset while still being able to purchase locally. A couple of corset companies, while they do source their corsets overseas, find it important to visit the manufacturer and make sure working conditions and pay are fair. If this is important to you, then don’t be afraid to ask customer service (see #4) about your concerns.

*

What are your most important factors when it comes to choosing a corset? Let me know in the comments below!

Storing your contemporary hoopskirts

1 May

Not directly corset-related (and don’t worry – I will resume the season-with-me posts soon!) but here is a cool video demonstration (not done by me) on how to fold your crinoline/ hoopskirts for travel or storage. I tried following along with the video and managed to achieve the fold once or twice – if I learn how to do it consistently and can figure out a way to explain it effectively, then I might post a tutorial for it.

Once folded, it needs to be held in place so it doesn’t pop open again. You can use the drawstring to tie it in place, or store it in an appropriately-sized drum bag or a hat-box with a latch. Here’s a budget cymbal bag that might just work.

Please note that this folding trick will likely only work on contemporary skirts that are stiffened with spring steel, and I wouldn’t attempt this with any hoopskirts stiffened with reed, bamboo, wood, etc.

What do you think? Can you fold your crinolines this way? Let me know!

*

*

By the way, did I ever post about my crinoline video on this blog yet? If not, here you go:

*

Cheers!

Tags: , , , , ,

2nd day of Corset Seasoning

23 Apr

Today I discuss what factors affect how quickly and easily a corset is seasoned. Some corsets might only take a few days to feel comfortable on your body, while others take weeks (or even over a month!) to feel like a 2nd skin. Some of these factors that affect the seasoning time include:

  • What you’re wearing with the corset – thicker sweaters under the corset will obviously create more bulk and keep you from lacing down as much. If you insist on wearing a bulky shirt under your corset, then take your measurement of your natural waist overtop of the sweater (the shirt can sometimes add an inch or more of girth to your waist) and still only cinch down about 2 inches less than that (not 2 inches less than your “bare waist” natural measurement, as that will be more reduction overall and more tension on your corset).
  • The time of day or month might affect how much you can cinch down and how comfortable the corset feels. I can cinch more in the morning but less at night. I can cinch more right after my period, but the week before and during my period corsets are less comfortable than usual. (Note they are never painful, simply less comfortable – the same way blue jeans are less comfortable than yoga pants, but they’re still okay on a general level). Obviously a corset is more comfortable on an empty stomach (or after a light snack) compared to right after a big meal.
  • Some corsets are thicker/more heavy-duty than others, which may mean they take longer to soften, conform to your body and break in compared to lightweight corsets.
  • Corsets of different silhouettes can also be more comfortable or less comfortable/ compatible with your body, and take longer to get used to. Extreme hourglass corsets with a cupped ribcage are easier for me to break in and cinch down in, compared to wasp-waist/conical ribcage style corsets. Also, overbust corsets take longer for me to break in compared to underbust corsets, generally.

If you buy all your corsets from the same maker, you might be able to predict how your body responds and how  your new corset breaks in over time. There is nothing wrong with staying with the same maker – you can build rapport with that maker and develop a good business relationship, and they will know your lacing habits and be aware of issues with your body if they arise over time, so they know how to draft a truly well-fitted corset for you each time you need a new piece. But if you purchase many corsets from different makers like I do, don’t expect all corsets to behave or break in the same way, and also don’t expect the same results from your own body! Above all, patience is key.

See my video for my comments on how the corset is starting to conform to my body and how the structure of the corset is changing slightly as I wear it in more:

Tags: , , , , , ,

1st day of Corset Seasoning

22 Apr

Adjusting the corset for comfort

I wore my corset for two hours on the first day, at a reduction of about 1.5 inches. The first thing that comes to mind as I’m seasoning the corset is that the waistline of the corset is not sitting properly at the true waist of my body. Especially when I sit down, I feel the corset wanting to shift up on my body, so that the smallest part of the corset is sitting on my floating ribs. Whenever this happens, I simply stand up and pull the corset down. Conversely, if I feel that my upper hips are uncomfortable and the corset is hitting that one annoying nerve that goes over my left hip bone, then I will pull up the corset. It’s not a complicated process.

Once the corset is properly broken in and fitted to my body, then I’ll be able to lace the corset tighter. At that point, the waist of the corset will be smaller than the circumference of my ribcage or my hips, and so the corset will “hook” itself under my ribs and will anchor itself in place and not slide around – this will make my corseting experience actually much more comfortable.

Problems with my asymmetric body

Because my left hip protrudes more than my right hip (and because one side of my body is more readily compressible than the other), it also means that twisting of symmetric corsets on my body is fairly common. I go to the extra effort to make sure my corset is straight and even when I first put on the corset and tie it up – but as the hours go by, if I notice the corset start to slant on me, I will tug the top and bottom edges of the corset in opposite directions so the corset is sitting vertical on me again.

If you notice that a new corset is sitting weirdly on  you, it’s a good idea to take off the corset and measure each side individually at the top edge (bust or underbust level), at the waist (smallest part) and at the bottom edge (hip level). Each side of the corset should match up in its “half circumference” (at least within about 1/4 inch is acceptable to me, unless it’s specifically designed to be an asymmetric corset). If you have an OTR corset that’s asymmetric on each side, see if you can get it exchanged.

Never ignore a twisted corset

One of my buddies from school had tried on one of my Isabella Josephine underbust corset at a party. She was a tiny little thing and achieved some amazing curves – but it was laced up at an obvious angle on her body. I cringed a bit at the observation, but didn’t say anything about it. I wish I had, because now whenever I try to wear that corset, the busk is diagonal on my body. Even though the corset was laced badly only once, that was enough for the corset to partially season to my friend’s figure, and it never fit the same way on me again. So now if I notice that the corset is very slanted, or if the corset is already slanted when I do up the busk even before I start lacing down, I take off the corset and start again. Wearing a twisted corset isn’t necessarily uncomfortable on me, it’s just REALLY REALLY REALLY annoying.

You can check out my video for more information, a demonstration on how I adjust the corset and how the structure of the corset slightly changes after just one wear!

Tags: , , ,

Break in (season) my corset with me!

21 Apr

Back in December 2010, I made a video on seasoning (breaking in) your corset, how this is done, and why seasoning is important. I’ve been seasoning my corsets this way ever since one unfortunate situation early on in my journey wherein I put on a corset for the 2nd time without seasoning it and ended up ripping a seam from one violent sneeze (my sneezes are not ladylike).

Ever since I started seasoning my corsets as per the Romantasy guidelines, I have never had that situation happen again – so I have reason to believe that it works, and there is a purpose behind this.

There are a few reasons that I decided to revisit this topic…

  1. Many people have seen my previous corset seasoning video but still don’t fully understand the process, and don’t know what is normal wear and what isn’t.
  2. Too many people are writing  and complaining to me about problems with their corset quality and/or how they feel uncomfortable, when the only problem is that they’re wearing the corset too tight, too quickly. It’s possible that they haven’t seen my first break-in video or that they have simply ignored the advice.
  3. Ann Grogan (owner of Romantasy) recently released an excellent article on her blog regarding assessing the fit of one’s custom made corset upon first wearing. Read it here!

It’s been a few years since I learned this seasoning technique, and since then I’ve seasoned over 70 corsets – each corset has been slightly different whether in cut, size, silhouette, material, construction methods, etc.
Each corset taught me a little more about the properties of corsets/garments in general, and also helped me learn a little more about how my own body works.

So I’m willing to make a step-by-step guide on the seasoning process – each day I’ll likely report how the corset feels as we become acquainted, as well as document any changes to the appearance of the corset (both on and off my body) – that way I’ll be able to show you what experiences and feelings are normal from a physical standpoint, and what kind of wear to the corset over time is typical (from those that I’ve owned). As I go through each day (or set of days), I will also be able to discuss important related issues or answer any FAQ that pop into my memory. Sound good?

In this introductory video I talk about the reasons behind seasoning, why it’s important for both YOUR HEALTH and your corset, and what sort of things to avoid as you begin the seasoning process:

Tags: , , , , ,

The Campaign is Over – Now What?

17 Apr

After my last call to action a bit more than a week ago, I was so happy to see many viewers and readers donate to the fundraising campaign for Sidney Eileen. Together we raised the goal amount of $18,000 with about 60 hours to spare, and had raised nearly $21,000 for her (before fees) by the time the campaign had ended.

Slowly, things are getting back to normal (on my end) from a social media standpoint – I’m no longer updating 50 times a day on Facebook, and most of my campaign update videos on Youtube are now set as “Unlisted” (I can provide links for them if anyone wants them, and they’re visible if you have any of these videos saved in a playlist but they’re not searchable on Youtube). If you would like to know what’s going on from Sidney Eileen and Diana’s end, I encourage you to keep an eye on the “Updates” tab of the Indiegogo page, as well as Sidney’s blog/website and her Facebook page.

My schedule is not completely normal yet – I’m going to ask you to still be a little patient around here, as I’m creating the ‘perks’ promised in the campaign.

As it stands, I have 32 individual “thank you” videos to create (film, edit, render and send), 6 customized corset patterns to draft, as well as construct a fully custom underbust corset to make for some wonderful contributors! Additionally I am trying to finish off my last few corset commissions trailing from this past winter. There’s no saying how long this will actually take but I will try to work through all of these tasks in good time while still doing the best job I possibly can. I’m estimating it may take around 2-3 months (working around my other job).

Throughout this process, I’m hoping to still upload videos/ update my blog once a week. After the perks and commissions are finished I hope to go back to “regular programming” here and on Youtube,  barraging you all with more hair videos, sewing tutorials, outfit ideas, corseting health and lifestyle vids and more. :) I will also resume the consultation service and selling corsets at that time.

Thank you, friends, for your infinite patience and support!

Meschantes RTW Waist Training Corset Review

16 Apr

This entry is a summary of the review video “Meschantes RTW Waist Training Corset Review” which you can watch on YouTube here:

Meschantes

Fit, length Front is about 11″ inches long, back also 11″ long. From underbust to lap at shortest point is 10″. Moderate hourglass silhouette. Mid-hip corset (not short on the hips but not longline) – good for average-to-long torsos. Will hold in a bit of lower tummy pooch. Looking at the size chart for the RTW corsets, the ribcage is about 5″ bigger than the waist, and the hips about 8″ bigger than the waist. Always take this into consideration before buying a certain size.
Material 2 main layers; fashion layer is cotton twill and the lining is bull denim. Some interfacing on the back panels.
Construction 6 panel pattern. Sandwiched boning, double-boned on each seam. Top-stitched between panels. The liner doesn’t float, and there are no garter tabs.
Binding Black satin bias tape machine stitched on both inside and outside.
Waist tape 1″ wide invisible waist tape between the two layers.
Modesty panel Attached 7.5″ wide fabric lacing protector on the back, can be removed if desired.
Busk No busk; closed front. Instead there are four flat steel bones in the center front, all 10″ long. Two center bones are 1/2″ wide, and adjacent to those are two flats about 1/4″ wide. Keeps the center front quite flat.
Boning 24 steel bones, including the center front bones (where the busk would normally be). On each side of the corset you’ll find 8 spirals (1/4″ wide) double boned on the seams; then 4 flats (1/4″ wide) sandwiching the grommets; and as mentioned in the “busk” section above, another two reinforcing the center front.
Grommets 24 grommets total, size #0 two-part grommets with large flange; colored black on the outside (washers are silver). Grommets are set closer together at the waist for more control when cinching. No splits, no catching on the laces.
Laces Strong flat shoe-lace style laces; they grip well and they are long enough that I can pull the corset over my head when putting it on and taking it off (because there’s no busk). No springiness to the laces, and difficult to break.
Price Ranges from $140 – $185 depending on the size and where you purchase it. They have a regular website, an Etsy store, and also an Ebay store where some corsets are priced as low as $110.

Final Thoughts (and discussion on conflicting reviews):

Even though I’ve received requests for a couple of years now to do a review of Meschantes, I was hesitant to do so because of so many other conflicting reviews out there. Meschantes has a very enthusiastic and loyal customer/ fanbase, and then another significant group of people who’ve had very disappointing experiences with the company. My own contact with them was also limited as they didn’t respond to my own emails. Although I had wanted to try their custom/ made-to-measure service, in the end I decided to try one of their RTW corsets.  I usually don’t like to depend much on heresay, but I’ve heard enough stories from people getting their corsets months late (or not receiving their custom orders at all) that I didn’t want to risk dropping my money on something that I knew couldn’t be shipped out immediately.

That said, I found fit and the quality of the RTW corset to be decent for the price (especially if you go by the price on Ebay). Meschantes is different to some other companies in that all the layers used are cotton (instead of polyester), allowing the skin to breathe. The shape/ silhouette it gives is quite lovely, and the reduction is decent on my figure (although due to the rib-waist-hip ratio, I would have fit the size 24″ better than the size 22″). For those who are conscious about the economy and fair trade, all of Meschantes corsets are constructed in the U.S. 

Meschantes theoretically has a lot going for them; they have the ability to make beautiful and high quality pieces. I want to like them – my only wish is that their service were a bit more consistent. Very rarely do I see a company in which their customer base has such a “black or white” opinion; it seems that many people either love them or hate them. Granted, it’s usually the people who receive exceptional service and products (whether exceptionally good or exceptionally bad) who are the loudest. Although corset makers are human and we all make mistakes, after hearing from customers “for” and “against”, it sounds like purchasing from here is rather a game of roulette.

If you want to try Meschantes but you are nervous about the service, I would definitely recommend purchasing through Etsy or Ebay - the positive/negative feedback system on these sites can add incentive for sellers (in general) to deliver what they promise.

If you have any real, 1st hand experience with Meschantes or their products, whether good/bad/meh, I encourage you to comment below this post – maybe then we can see a proper reflection.

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , ,

Don’t gloss over this

3 Apr

sidney

A lot of people only give to campaigns or projects where contributors feel they can “get something in return.” A new TV show, program, game, or book. But this one is a bit different.

How much do you value free education?

There are only 4 days remaining to the end of the Indiegogo Campaign to help Sidney Eileen receive treatment for her Lyme disease.

Why should we care?

Because Sidney Eileen has spent years giving her time and energy to make free tutorials for others, and encouraging and helping others. It’s because of Sidney’s hard work that many artists and designers are active in our community, refining their techniques, further helping others, and are able to profit from their art.

She could have easily charged for her tutorials – but she didn’t, and still doesn’t.
Now her Lyme disease has progressed undiagnosed for so long that she’s unable to do art or work. She can’t even walk across a room without the possibility of getting vertigo, losing her  strength/coordination or passing out.

Without work/income, Sidney can’t afford treatment. Without treatment, the disease continues to destroy her nervous system. The longer the disease progresses without treatment, the less likely her body will be able to be strong enough to even handle the treatment. That’s why time is sort of the essence here.

Lyme disease is very real and very serious at this advanced stage. Sidney didn’t ask for doctors to dismiss her symptoms for years; she didn’t somehow bring this upon herself. Life is unfair, especially when the place where you live denies you the basic right of health.

Sidney Eileen believes that artists are entitled to free education, yet she herself has been denied the basic right of good health. Think about it long enough, and you start to feel angry.

Sidney Eileen is an irreplaceable part of this community. If it weren’t for her encouragement and support, I wouldn’t be where I am today. My channel and this website as we know it might not exist today. If ever you’ve been appreciative of what I’ve provided to the corset community, and if you’ve ever thought about supporting me in some way, take that support and give it to Sidney because at this point, she needs it more than I do.

I’m not trying to create a sob story or guilt anyone into resentfully giving to the campaign. I’m saying that within a community, members take care of the people who had made a positive impact. I feel a certain responsibility to help those who have helped me.

That’s why I give a damn about this campaign. What about you?

Visit the page, read her story, and decide for yourself how much you value free information.

Puimond PY09 Curvy Underbust Corset Review

3 Apr

This entry is a summary of the review video “Puimond PY09 Curvy Underbust Corset Review” which you can watch on YouTube here:

Fit, length Front is about 13 inches long, back is 13″ long. The shortest part from underbust to lap is about 11″. Unique silhouette in which the ribcage follows the natural contours but nips in dramatically at the waist for an extreme hourglass shape. Hips are mid to longline; holds in any lower pooch. High back prevents muffin top, very flattering. Recommended for extreme hourglass ladies.
Material Fashion layer is silk cherryblossom brocade; backed onto cotton; lining is cotton coutil.
Construction 6 panel pattern. Top-stitching between panels, boning channels on the edge of each panel plus extra ones in the middle of the wider panels – these channels are in special boning casing to protect the brocade. Floating liner (very comfortable). No garter tabs (wasn’t requested).
Binding Complementary pink ribbon, machine stitched inside and outside; not folded under on the inside because the edges are already finished.
Waist tape 1″ wide invisible waist tape between the interlining and lining.
Modesty panel None. (Wasn’t requested.)
Busk Standard-width busk (0.5″ wide on each side) about 12″ long (6 pins).
Boning 18 steel bones not including busk. On each side, there are 7 spirals (always one on the edge of a panel, and a few more in the middle of some panels) and another two steel flats sandwiching the grommets at the back.
Grommets 26 grommets total, size #00 two-part grommets with moderate flange; set equidistantly; high quality – very few splits but don’t catch on laces, no wear/fraying/pulling out of grommets
Laces Strong braided cord-like shoe-lace style laces; they’re thin, they grip well and they are long enough. Very easy to lace up, holds the tension well and bows don’t slip out. Zero spring.
Price The PY09 is advertised as $410 for regular fabric (brocades, satins, silks etc) and $550 for leather/vinyl. You can see the options on his website here.

Final Thoughts:

I just had to make Puimond my featured corsetier for April, as the cherry blossom brocade reflected the blooming cherry trees this month. This is my first underbust corset from Puimond, and also my first custom-fit corset from him. I had no doubt that Puimond is extremely well-respected in his field before, but it’s this corset that most definitely secures his place as one of my top 5 favourite individual corset designers, ever.

Puimond’s soft skills are also right up there with his corsetry skills – he was always very friendly, approachable, and patient as I explained my usual “problem areas” when it comes to corsets, namely a longer/ lower torso, very compressible waist, and needing enough room in the hips. He worked fast, gave me occasional updates, and the finished corset went from his studio and into my hands (across the US/Canadian border) within 48 hours. You can see the result here – a strong yet lightweight that gives firm reduction (this is so far the smallest corset I own), while still lending to an overall soft, feminine effect.

Puimond is a master of textiles; he works just as easily with temperamental brocades as he does with coutil, satin, leather and PVC to give a very smooth, no-wrinkle, no-fray piece. His construction techniques adapt depending on the corset pattern and materials which is a reflection of his extensive experience. Excuse me while I fan-girl about this corset all over again.

To see Puimond’s other styles, please do visit his website here.

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , ,

← Older Entries

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 421 other followers